The junction of the Grand Union and Regent’s Canals near Paddington has been referred to by the locals as “Little Venice” for the best part of two centuries. The origins of the name have been hotly debated since then, with celebrated laureates such as Lord Byron and Robert Browning credited with coining the neighbourhood's name. Incredibly picturesque in parts, it offers something of a clash between cultures, with the glorious Regency era architecture of some parts of the canal standing starkly opposed to the more modern developments in areas like Paddington Basin. But Little Venice is more than just pretty waterways graced by narrowboats and barges, and is anything but small in stature when it comes to its reputation for dining.
Already buoyed by its appreciation as a beauty spot, the more modern additions along the waterways have only increased the area’s appeal as a destination for dining among both residents and visitors to London. Despite its popularity, Little Venice still feels quite unassuming and understated – like a best-kept-secret that’s still waiting to be found.
Kateh
Tucked just off Warwick Avenue in a discreet townhouse, the soft teal walls are adorned with Persian art and low-lit tables that give Kateh the feel of a private home rather than a Bib-Gourmand recipient from the Michelin Guide. A small outside terrace offers a peek at the canal for diners fortunate enough to earn a seat, while downstairs, the atmosphere is encased in intimacy thanks to the familial environment created by the aforementioned design touches.
Kateh is a love-letter to Persian cuisine, focusing on family-style dishes that sizzle with the spice and aromas of the Middle East. Sharing platters bedecked with jewel-coloured salads, yoghurt dips perfumed with herbs, and crisp pastries is a hit with everyone from casual diners to larger parties. From the charcoal-grill comes suculent kebab meat, served with mountains of buttery saffron rice to accompany slow-simmered stews like ghormeh sabz. Sweet treats come in the vein of rosewater ice cream and classic baklava, offering a truly delicious sample of the delights of hearty Persian family cooking.
Paulette
Never mind Little Venice, Paulette feels like a slice of Paris that’s carved out a home among the banks of West London. The kitchen takes classic French dishes that might threaten to drown diners in their own indulgence and instead, lets them float. Escargots come swimming in garlic butter, moules marinières arrive in a briny white-wine broth with crusty bread to mop it up, and Tarte Tatin comes oozing with blue cheese and mascarpone cream.
Seasonal dishes add sizzle to the menu. Come summer, there might be a wild-strawberry tart, with roast pigeon served with lentils in winter, and with the wine selection offering a taste of everywhere from Burgundy to Loire, the menu stacks up well throughout the year. By day, Paulette is the setting for business lunches or pre-school run bites, whilst amid the evening glow, it carries a palpable buzz befitting of any Parisian bistro. This is a place to linger over a bottle long into the night and let the world outside go by with either little or maximum interest.
Smith’s & Ayllu
A modern brasserie that boasts gapong windows looking out on the water (reminiscent of cruiseships and pleasure boats), Smith’s has a lot to offer before one even glances at the menu. Polished timber floors and plenty of foliage help soften the space and service encompasses everything from breakfast to Sunday roasts, with the highlight of the premises being the grill station. Serving flat-iron and ribeye steaks cooked over open flame, crispy calamari or grilled prawns for sharing, with lighter salads and vegetarian small plates to keep things balanced for those mindful of the generous portion sizes.
Meanwhile, downstairs, Ayllu offers a complete change of scene. Low lighting, velvet seating, and dark walls accented with Peruvian textiles provide a speakeasy feel that, if anything, makes the Nikkei-infused menu all the more tantalising. Ceviche served with tiger’s milk, miso-marinated cod, beef anticucho skewers, to name but a few of the highlights from this blend of two unique cuisines. Cocktails are equally inventive, designed to work with the menu’s emphasis on citrus and spice. Whether you prefer a frothy pisco sour or the tang of a yuzu martini, this unique venue offers a polarising experience above and below the waterline.
The Bridge House
One of the area’s brightest and charming pubs, this Fullers-owned and operated property sits directly by the canal towpath and has all the hallmarks of a traditional pub updated for modern times – roaring open fire included for those chilly winter months. A firm favourite amongst locals and casual passers-by, the beer garden is always threatening to overflow into the canal during summer, whilst the upstairs, Canal Cafe Theatre, is one of the area’s best-kept secrets.
The kitchen produces elevated pub dining fare that has a sense of flair to it. Encouragingly large portions of beer-battered fish and chips with mushy peas, hearty pies with shortcrust pastry that’s patterning borders on artisanal, and Sunday roasts that are generously carved and evenly plated. There’s always a rotating cask ale or two at the bar, along with an excellent selection of wines and spirits to enjoy a glass of, either outside in the beaming sunshine or sinking into a comfy armchair during the colder months of the year.
Café Laville
Café Laville is all about the view. Straddling the bridge over the canal, floor-to-ceiling windows line one side of the dining room, letting light pour over the tables and giving diners a lasting view of the postcard-perfect stretch of water beneath. The interior is crisp and unfussy, more café-bar than restaurant, with a relaxed approach to service that feels like the restaurant drifts along gently through service, much like the body of water it sits astride.
When it comes to dining, business is light and unapologetically Italian. Highlights include fresh burrata with heritage tomatoes, saffron seafood risotto, and handmade pastas in seasonally changing sauces. The weekend brunch offering includes classics like eggs Florentine alongside Italian pastries, for a much lighter bite among the establishments that line the waterways in this part of London.
The Summerhouse
The Summerhouse is a hidden gem that is secluded away by the water’s edge, and more reminiscent of a New England beach house than a London eatery. Whitewashed boards, striped cushions, lanterns and big windows thrown open to the water combine during the warmer months to make the Summerhouse, one of the most coveted tables in Little Venice.
Seafood is the primary focus for the menu at this beach-inspired dining spot. Begin with Dorset crab cakes or a platter of oysters on ice, before moving on to whole grilled sea bass or a generously portioned lobster roll, whilst enjoying a crisp glass of rosé or cocktail and casually people watching from the privacy of the sequestered location.
