English pubs are so much more than a place to go for a drink and something to eat. Essays have been written about their cultural impact and meaning, but to distill it down to one word - for the sake of brevity - the English pub has blossomed and evolved for many centuries, and continues to do so, because it is a much-treasured place of sanctuary. Whether taking refuge from the weather, or as a sacred place to meet with friends and family, or even as somewhere to go alone to gather one’s thoughts and rest the mind, the best pubs have an undeniable sense of comfort and escapism in the air. And so, for some of the most supreme pubs known to man, look no further than the Cotswolds - a pretty patchwork of quaint villages and small towns strewn across a handsome stretch of countryside in the heart of England. Whatever the weather, whatever the time of year, a Cotswold pub is the epitome and personification of ‘an English pub’. Here is our expert guide to the area’s most desirable.
The Chequers, Churchill
A quintessential Cotswold gem, The Chequers is slap bang in the middle of the picturesque Oxfordshire village of Churchill (near Chipping Norton), sitting astride the quaint ‘cricket’ green. It's got absolutely everything you’d ask for in a cosy, traditional pub - drooping low beams, ancient wooden tables, flagstone floors, and a roaring open fire, to name but a few. The building dates back to the 16th century, so The Chequers boasts a deeply satisfying sense of history, and sliding into one of the tucked-away seating nooks with your favourite people to get warm (and wonderfully fed and watered) after a long walk in the nearby Churchill Heath Nature Reserve is absolute bliss. Guests enjoy a menu which is both traditional and expansive: the Sunday roasts are famously generous, and there is a dazzling array of fulfilling burgers, but the more adventurous elements (venison pie, confit duck leg) are just as popular. The bar is well stocked with local ales, while cocktails are served with expertise. In summer, the beer garden is perfect for people-watching in the sunshine.
The Bull, Charlbury
The Bull has 18th-century evokes English coaching inn heritage in a wonderful way. But it can all become spectacularly stale without a healthy dose of foresight, vision, and some daring modernisation - which is exactly what makes The Bull shimmer in its latest reincarnation since reopening in July 2023. James Gummer and Phil Winser are the architects, so to speak, having masterminded The Pelican in Notting Hill (West London). Both men grew up near Charlbury, and so wanted to bring their flair for pub reinvention to the area. With The Bull they have quietly unleashed a blend of qualities that even has some commentators describing it as the best ‘village’ pub in the country. It’s nothing too complex, just a super-stylish cocktail of pints, pies and local produce - a ‘back to basics’ approach with a strong farm-to-table ethos, and a firm sense of duty to include and involve the local communities. That said, it’s unquestionably high-end, as the exquisitely sparse-but-warm interior design - much of it framed by candlelight - betrays with a muted but evident zeal. Wood-fired meats cooked whole on the grill, sharing plates of the freshest seasonal vegetables, and venison carpaccio, are typical of a snappy and indulgent menu.
The Potting Shed, Crudwell
There’s something thought-provoking about sitting next to an ancient stone fireplace while tucking into ultra-modern gastropub fare (dishes like pan-fried scallops, fregola, chili, black olive oil, for example). A plate with such global connectedness would be incomprehensible to our distant ancestors, for whom the heavyweight fireplace was simply a vital tool for pure survival. The Potting Shed, then, is this kind of place: a pretty Cotswold pub where you can feast upon excellent food and have a good ponder about life. Along with hungry day-trippers, there are thirsty locals too, giving the pub a sense of connection with the community. There is also a beautifully rustic beer garden, with plenty of seating.
The Swan At Southrop
This super-chic establishment - dating all the way back to 1606 - has real pedigree. The Swan is a consistently award-winning country pub and restaurant in something of a crowded field: the competition is fierce, but it rises above the rest time and again. For starters, it has immense good looks: blessed with a breathtakingly picturesque setting, within the idyllic Southrop Manor Estate, it is surrounded by quintessentially English countryside. Visitors are able to indulge in other activities on the closely-linked Thyme estate, such as bespoke spa treatments and the like, but the pub experience itself is enough to keep you occupied, stimulated, and deeply content. There is a beautiful garden and terrace for al fresco dining during warmer months, while inside - when the weather is cold and wet, as it might be in the depths of winter - there is a high-end contemporary menu to indulge in, with highlights such as braised chicken pie and salt pig salami to really warm the cockles. This is less of a classic ‘village’ pub than many others in the Cotswolds - the decor is characterful but undeniably 21st century - but guests can still have crisps and a pint at the bar, there are traditional Sunday roasts, and even a cosy corner to watch live sport on TV.
The Woolpack Inn, Slad
There has been no clear-the-decks revolution here, just carefully considered evolution. As a proudly traditional tavern nestled in the Slad Valley, The Woolpack is all the better for this - and it’s deeply cherished by locals. This is a pub with a rich literary history, too, documented and immortalised in Laurie Lee’s famous novel Cider with Rosie, which expertly depicts the ups and downs of West Country village life in the period after the First World War. As back then, flowing conversation on communal tables here is still held in high regard, so it’s a friendly place. You never know who you might talk to, nor what you might end up talking about. But to food and drink: the wide craft beer selection is excellent, best enjoyed under vine-covered terraces (weather permitting), while the nibbles menu is always inviting. The dining room menu is a stimulating hotbed of rustic, seasonal dishes: green beans with burrata, and sweet juicy tomatoes draped with smoked lardo, are big favourites among the satisfied clientele.
The best pubs in the Cotswolds are, in fact, some of the very best in Britain. Set amid spectacular rolling countryside, within charmingly historic buildings, boasting spectacular food, service that is totally on point, and an overall atmosphere of utter contentment.
