Rare are the moments in high-fashion history that give rise to legacies that last generations – the creation of the Birkin was one such moment. So commanding a statement, the Birkin is arguably Hermès’ pièce de résistance – it needs no introduction and possesses stellar visual dominance that holds its own.
A singular remnant of fashion history that embodies understated luxury, the Birkin bag has grown into a cultural phenomenon. It is the mecca of timeless style, showcasing an intricate interplay between elegance and functionality – a compelling harmony achieved through a simple, yet innovative silhouette and exquisite craftsmanship. Indeed, its star power enables it to redefine records when sold at an auction.
The significance of the Birkin has taken on a new dimension in the era of fast fashion and fleeting trends and will certainly not go out of style anytime soon. An unquestionable cult classic, the bag’s presence is palpable worldwide, spanning the music, film and television industries. Scarce and quietly impressive, it is the coveted trophy in the wardrobes of many artists and celebrities alike.
The Original Hermès Birkin is arguably the world’s most iconic bag and has been consigned to Sotheby’s Paris for sale this summer. Belonging to Jane Birkin herself, the bag’s value is only reinforced by its cultural significance and exclusivity. With striking flair and undeniable mastery, it tells a story that transcends time. This is not just a chapter in fashion history – it is its defining moment.
The Birkin at Sotheby’s
Birkins are famously discerning when it comes to their future owners – it’s no secret that one cannot simply walk into a Hermès flagship and purchase one on demand. Each year, only a limited number are released, and the house remains highly selective about who is deemed worthy of carrying one. A Birkin isn’t bought; it’s bestowed. For those fortunate enough to be offered one, the privilege often comes after a lengthy wait. However, as history has shown, the pursuit is more than worth it.
Hermès prioritises clients who have built a strong relationship with the brand over time, typically those who spend six figures each year on other Hermès items. It is this kind of exclusivity that keeps the brand in a league of its own.
For those drawn to the revolutionary piece that propelled Hermès to new heights, the maiden Birkin bag will be going under the hammer at the Sotheby’s Fashion Icons Sale set to take place in Paris. The Sotheby’s Handbags & Fashion department is presenting the sale, which will also highlight a curated selection of legendary pieces from landmark couture collections by Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Thierry Mugler.
The Original Birkin was displayed at Sotheby’s New York from June 6 to June 12, and it will then travel to Paris from the 3rd to the 9th of July before leading the house’s online “Fashion Icons” sale on July 10.
The Original Birkin, Made for Jane Birkin
The Original Birkin model is an icon in its purest form – unspoiled and entirely itself. It was created in 1984 in collaboration with Jane Birkin, a British and French actress. While other Birkin creations vary across their sizes, hues, and leathers, this unique prototype is distinguished by seven design elements that render its status symbol as the very genesis of the world’s most coveted bag.
Slightly taller and broader than the Birkins that followed, its proportions are practical, with a height of just under 14 inches and a depth of just under 16 inches. The strap is fixed, and the hardware is made of humble brass. The zipper is sourced from another maker, and the bottom studs are smaller on this prototype than those used by Hermès to manufacture the commercialised Birkin bags.
Presented in the exact condition it was last used by Jane, The Original Birkin wears the scars of age and use gracefully. It is branded with her initials – J.B. – and the Original Certificate of the Charity auction signed by Jane Birkin on 5 October 1994 is also included.
The Original Birkin has travelled around the world – it was displayed under glass at MoMA in New York and then shown at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. In October 2024, it was on display at Sotheby’s Paris and Sotheby’s Maison in Hong Kong, where thousands came to marvel at it.
A Serendipitous Meeting
The Birkin's origins are tied to a chance encounter that’s now famed and fabled in fashion history. Jane Birkin and then Hermès artistic director Jean-Louis Dumas struck up a conversation on a flight, during which Jane confessed that she struggled to find a bag that could hold all her daily essentials.
Upon hearing this predicament, Dumas offered to create the perfect bag for her. Sketched on an airsickness packet, the two designed a bold yet functional bag, which would disrupt the luxury fashion industry – a smaller version of the Hermès Haut à Courroies sac, the tote-style beauty featured two sturdy handles.
When the sketch was brought to life, Hermès offered Jane Birkin the bag and asked if the model could be named after her.
Final Thoughts
Jane Birkin died in July 2023, a proud owner of five Birkin bags, all of which were gifted to her. One of her Birkins sold for $160,000 at a 2021 auction – five times its pre-sale estimate.
One of the most admired bags of its era, the Birkin bag bears testimony not only to its rich provenance but also to the pursuit of timeless design. The upcoming Fashion Icons auction offers a rare opportunity to claim the Original Birkin, a singular artefact where history, craftsmanship, and heartfelt spirit converge – an enduring symbol born from the woman whose name it carries.
