Britain has a prolific horological history, predating the dominance of Swiss watches and inspiring the likes of Rolex. Pocket watches – which were associated with global explorations and colonial conquests – were popularised in the 17th century by Charles II, the King of Scotland and England. Since then, British scientists have made massive leaps in watchmaking, from Thomas Mudge’s lever escapement mechanism in 1755 to John Harrison’s marine chronometer in 1759 and Thomas Tompion’s spring-regulated watch.
The Best British Watch Brands
Spurred by the industrial revolution, Britain produced the majority of the world’s watches in the 1800s. In spite of the World Wars and the collapse of the British Empire, the country’s watchmaking industry continued to endure, sprouting the recognisable British brands we know today. The country’s watchmaking supremacy, in terms of innovation and craftsmanship, is certainly unassailable. Read on to discover the best UK watch brands.
1. Bremont
Bremont is the brainchild of Nick and Giles English, established with the aim of putting English watchmaking on the world stage. They also wanted to pay tribute to their father, Dr. Euan English, a pilot who lost his life in World War II and mentored them in the field of mechanical engineering.
Thus, the brothers created their very own watch company Bremont, which would go on to reclaim Britain’s watchmaking glory after having fallen from grace due to the toll of colonial losses.
Bremont is particularly famous for its special-edition pieces, custom-made for former as well as serving military officials. This led to a partnership with the British Ministry of Defence, which sanctioned the production of military-inspired timepieces for civilians.
To this day, their military models are some of the finest pieces they have ever produced, from the aviation-inspired MB1 models to the Supermarine range, named after the manufacturer of the World War II-era Spitfire aircraft.
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2. Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward pioneered the commercialisation of luxury watches – they were the “world's first exclusively online luxury watch brand,” selling high-value models directly to the consumer.
Conceived by Mike France, Peter Ellis, and Christopher Ward, the brand’s first-ever model created quite the buzz, even stealing the spotlight from Rolex’s new releases in 2005. They have continually evolved since, adding countless accolades to their crown. In 2015, Christopher Ward was the only watch company featured in The Sunday Times SME Export Track 100.
They aimed at crafting Swiss watch-quality pieces for common consumers. As such, the brand designed the watches in Britain but manufactured them in an atelier at Biel in Switzerland. Their collaboration with the Swiss team became stronger over the years, culminating in a merger with a Swiss manufacturing company, Synergies Horlogères SA. The C60 Sapphires and C63 Sealanders are Christopher Ward’s best-selling models.
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3. AnOrdain
AnOrdain is a Scottish brand renowned for its trademark enamel dials. Driven by sustainability and a unique eye for style, AnOrdain’s founding principle was to undertake design and manufacturing processes under one roof.
Established in 2015, AnOrdain is a merry marriage between modernity and traditional craftsmanship. Their enamel-dialled mechanical watches are certainly an impressive feat, catapulting the brand to celebrity status swiftly. Their very first release, “Model 1,” was inspired by cartographic maps of the region of Loch an Ordain – all 260 pieces sold out within weeks.
At present, AnOrdain is a tightly run ship, held down by a 15-strong cadre of professionals, including designers, engineers, and enamelers. One of their most beloved watches is the “Model 1 Iron Cream,” a manually assembled, understated piece characterised by its cream-hued enamel and blue heat-treated hands.
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4. Garrick
Garrick was established to create quintessentially British timepieces that were meticulous, precise, and elegant in character. The brand prides itself on designing pieces for the most discerning watch connoisseurs.
The brand, founded by David Brailsford and Simon Michlmayr, is committed to denouncing mass production and hyper commercialisation of watches. With only one facility in Norfolk, Garrick dedicatedly handcrafts every single piece. The brand produces no more than 50 watches every year.
Garrick takes its pristine exclusivity seriously. With their “positive air pressure” mechanism, only purified air can enter the production facility in order to prevent dust contamination. Only seven reliable watchmakers are employed to create Garrick’s models, and every piece is completed with peerless finishes, poised to enrapture watch purists.
Their latest model is the S3 Timepiece, which is worth £32,995. The openwork dial, stellar finishing, and black polishing bear testimony to the brand’s dedication to detailed craftsmanship.
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5. Fears
Based in Bristol, Fears is one of Britain’s oldest watch brands. Presently headed by the sixth generation of the founding family, the brand’s core values have remained unchanged over the centuries.
Started by Edwin Fear in 1846, the company has navigated many trials and tribulations, from economic crises to world wars. Propelled by immense pride in their legacy, exclusivity, and craft, Fears has held onto their traditional means of production – their watches are handmade by a single watchmaker stationed in Norwich.
Their most popular collection is the Redcliff line, defined by elegant syringe-style hour markers and a time-and-date-only feature. It was this collection that relaunched Fears into the watch market after the infamous 1970s Quartz Crisis (a phenomenon in which the invention of quartz watches upended the traditional horology industry).
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6. Vertex
Vertex embodies a seamless harmony between English heritage and Swiss technique. Founded in 1912 by horological maestro Claude Lyons, he went on to preserve Swiss movements in British cases.
The brand garnered fame within a couple of years and was commissioned to make watches for the British military during World War I. A few years later, Vertex collaborated with Swiss watch company Revue Thommen to make resilient, “all-proof” steel watches.
After falling prey to the Quartz Crisis, Vertex was revived in 2015 by Lyon’s great-grandson with the release of the M100 model. The relaunch immediately put Vertex back on the global horology centre stage, catapulting it to one of Britain’s most formidable watch brands.
One of Vertex’s most premium models is the “M60C AquaLion DC,” which is inspired by the Vertex dive watches from the 1950s. Designed to thrive in a subaquatic marine environment, the handsome timepiece is water resistant to “60 bar of pressure" and is “Swiss Chronometer Certified.”
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7. Roger W. Smith
Celebrity watchmaker Roger W. Smith – a mentee of Dr. George Daniels, a notable watchmaker in the 20th century – founded his namesake brand with a bold ethos: “I make no apology for being a purist. Ours is the purest of mechanical arts.”
Smith set up his atelier on the Isle of Man in 2001 with a small band of seasoned craftsmen. He employed his master’s technique known as the “Daniels Method,” in which every single component is made by hand using raw materials. The painstakingly precise methodology allows Smith to produce only 12 watches every year. The watches boast unique hand-engraved dials and old horological embellishments.
The brand is known for producing the most expensive watch in Britain, which is a yellow gold pocket watch that sold for £3.8 million at a New York auction. With unmatched intricacy and limited production output, a Roger W. Smith is among the most sought-after statement pieces among watch connoisseurs.
A watch is no longer a purely functional accessory – it’s a statement piece. The snug timepiece on your wrist is a telltale sign of your personal style and goes a long way towards commanding an arresting presence. A luxury watch hailing from the island nation awaits – all you have to do is dress your wrist with the chosen one.
