The Patek Philippe Calatrava: The Ultimate Dress Watch? - UK Sotheby's International Realty
Patek Philippe is a renowned name in the horological world and is often the go-to brand for high-end luxury watches. Its Calatrava collection is one of its most desirable, with fans devoted to procuring any new editions that become available, as well as its rare past models. For some, the Calatrava is quite possibly the best dress watch in the world. So, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava a mark of true sartorial elegance or a costly investment that doesn’t quite live up to the hype?
Clean lines, minimalist dials and understated elegance
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the type of elevated timepiece accessory that has the “ability to perfectly compliment a suit or formal wear while still managing to fly under the radar”.
Its classic design is characterised by “clean lines, minimalist dials and understated elegance”. It has remained at the forefront of the brand’s collection for over 85 years thanks to its enduring essence of excellence and quality. Typically, the Calatrava features a round case with integrated precious metal lugs, a simple dial with stick markers and leaf or sword hands. Horological connoisseurs and collectors are repeatedly drawn to the understated beauty and sophistication of the Patek Philippe Calatrava because of its pedigree; confident that it will exceed their expectations and be an investment that spans lifetimes.
Named after the brand’s iconic emblem, the Calatrava cross
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is generally considered to be Patek’s signature watch.
First introduced in 1932, 64 years after Patek Philippe invented the first wristwatch, it is crafted with age-old Swiss watchmaking techniques. It is named after the brand’s iconic emblem, the Calatrava cross, which underlines its prestigious position within the company’s collection no matter how many variations and models are produced over the years.
It was actually developed, in part, in reaction to the crash of 1929. After such a significant economic downturn, the market for Patek watches was greatly reduced, resulting in new co-owners for the company who wanted to revitalise the business and appeal to the European market. Jean and Charles Henri Stern, who now had a controlling interest, enlisted famed English watch designer David Penny to create a dress watch that embodied simplicity, elegance and grace; enter the Calatrava.
A timeless treasure that transcends generations
In an interview with Gear Patrol, Larry Pettinelli the President of Patek Philippe USA described their watches as “wearable pieces of art” that stood out thanks to their unique “manufacturing process from start to finish and the extraordinary lengths of hand-finishing” that goes into every watch they create.
He went on to speak specifically about the Calatrava, noting its bespoke qualities and how “its form follows function” to build timeless treasures that transcend generations.