So many of the 21st Century’s successes for leisure and food drink locations have involved repurposing and reimagining areas of the world that were once home to industry. With waterfronts all over the globe providing transport for goods and creating opportunities for wealth in centuries past, the rivers, canals and waterways are largely responsible for making capital cities thrive and evolve into the high status postcodes we know today.
South west London is a wonderful example of this idea in action. The assorted trades, wharves and warehouses that once lined the southern arc of the River Thames have been replaced by taste sensations along where the ferry stops stood. Winding out from the creative edge of Hammersmith towards the quiet elegance of Richmond and on to the village-like charm of Barnes, this is a culinary trail that is certain to delight and inspire in equal measure.
Here is our guide to the very best.
The River Café – Hammersmith
The River Café can be viewed as a trailblazer for the transformation of function into modern finesse. In 1987, this warehouse was converted into a sanctuary of Italian cuisine excellence by Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Grey. A minimalist, light and open setting of interior design affords the riverside private terrace to be the perfect attraction to a Michelin-starred dining experience here. The River Café also holds an important place in the London foodie scene as it has been instrumental in shaping the careers of chefs such as Jamie Oliver and Theo Randall, who went on to great success. As a result, this place is now synonymous with the rise of London as a gastronomic destination through the 1990s and early 2000s.
Here you will find a daily changing menu that adapts to the catches of fish landed that very day, alongside the wealth of ingredients from nearby organic markets. All of which is prepared in the open-plan kitchen, home to their famous, striking pink wood-fired oven. The tagliarini with lemon and herbs and the wood-roasted turbot are signature examples of simple yet extraordinary cooking for a memorable meal by the river.
Rick Stein – Barnes
The celebrated chef Rick Stein has managed to achieve that rarest of accolades and his name alone can conjure up a certain style of cooking within a certain location. The idea of exquisitely fused British and Southeast Asian seafood served in beachside places immediately comes to mind when one thinks of him. Interestingly, this is his only London outpost, and he has managed to perfectly transpose the whole experience to a leafy, riverside stretch of the River Thames in quite some style. Set within a renovated 18th-century building once known as The Depot, this is a glass-fronted marvel that offers a superb panorama over the river for diners. The interior design has been carefully curated by Jill Stein, delivering elegance and rustic charm with its wooden floors, hanging plants, flowers and swathes of natural light. Indonesian Seafood Curry sits alongside Tronçon of Turbot with Hollandaise and Dover Sole Meunière for a menu that consistently delivers high quality delights. With weekly Jazz music nights on Tuesdays and Thursdays, this is a place that will always remain hip and swinging.
Bingham Riverhouse – Richmond
The impeccable setting of two 19th-century Georgian townhouses in the elegant suburban district of Richmond is the home to Bingham Riverhouse, a place that ties together historic elegance with contemporary flair. Employing soft pastel hues to compliment the striking floor-to-ceiling windows creates a calm and engaging atmosphere for this space that also provides a venue for wellness workshops and yoga classes, and it is easy to see how that works. The Library and Drawing Room here offer diners enviable views of the river, and the Riverhouse Garden Dome delivers the perfect intimate setting for evenings under the stars as light dances on the water below.
Award-winning Chef, Vanessa Marx, leads a menu that recognises the importance of sustainability, using foraged ingredients and local produce to create excellent signatures such as Brixham-caught Sea Bream with Lemon Beurre Blanc and Samphire or the Wild Boar Bourguignon with pancetta and Barley Risotto. Bingham Riverhouse feels as much like a retreat as it does a culinary treat, and that means you will be wanting to spend as much time here as possible.
The Petersham Restaurant – Richmond
When considering restaurants with views in this area of London, we simply cannot afford to overlook The Petersham Restaurant, sitting at the top of Richmond Hill. The vista here captures the meandering River Thames, the lush greenery of Petersham Meadows and the small tree-covered Islet of Glover’s Island. One so outstanding that it is the only view in the whole of the country that is safeguarded by an Act of Parliament to prevent any development spoiling it for future generations.
At The Petersham Restaurant, this setting acts as scenery for the servings of modern, seasonal, European cuisine with suitably grand dishes such as Ballotine of Quail, Roast Cod with Champagne Velouté, and Wild Mushroom Tart.
Although it will undoubtedly be the cinematic view that commands your attention, the interior design supports it in a highly stylised way with high ceilings, ornate plasterwork and muted, refreshed décor that suggests a subtle opulence. A Sunday lunch here in spring is a divine way of experiencing this connection to nature and culinary magic in a leisurely way. This is a place that inspired artists such as J.M.W Turner to create his masterpieces and it is certainly doing the same for The Petersham Restaurant kitchen staff.
The rhythm and refinement of south west London’s dining scene follows the journey of the great River Thames as it slows from the tumult of the city and out to the remarkable neighbourhoods that surround it. This pace allows for a more engaging eating experience in these fine restaurants with views, atmosphere and experiences that more than match anywhere in the world. With the incredible landscape and waterfront as the perfect starter, your meal will already be off to a great start.
