England has a fascination with the humble cup of tea that has endured for centuries. The notion that everything stops for tea in this country may very well be a light-hearted representation of an idea, but there is definitely a truth to it too. As many of us will know, the ritual and ceremony of creating the perfect brew is an art unto itself, and when additional considerations such as what cakes, treats and sandwiches should appear alongside it are involved, an entire world of experience and history is evoked. It is clear that this celebration of afternoon tea continues to be observed, developed and importantly enjoyed in many of the finest hospitality establishments across all of the UK and particularly in London.
The Old War Office
The Afternoon Tea service at The OWO Raffles London is perfectly placed to draw on all of this wonderful heritage and history. Within the walls and labyrinthine corridors of this Baroque masterpiece, it is easy to imagine the kinds of intriguing conversations and decisions that were made by military personnel and key intelligence figures, as they undoubtedly shared secrets over the teapot.
After the recent extraordinary renovation into one of the very best hotels in all of London, The Drawing Room at The WOW has become the stage for a new interpretation of this English institution, with its suite of chambers of high ceilings and grand sash windows overlooking Horse Guards Parade. The sight of the most ceremonial open space in the capital certainly helps set the atmosphere of fine china and polished silver in the light of a London afternoon.
Sugar and Spies
This homage to the building’s history is also evident in the very fabric of the Afternoon Tea service. The Secrets and Spies Afternoon Tea experience even includes a collection of menu items that pay tribute to the clandestine activities of real-life female agents that shaped wartime Britain.
It all begins, of course, with a delicate amuse-bouche before the sandwich stand is brought to the table with theatrical style. These savoury secrets include smoked salmon with candied lime and horseradish cream and Fosse Meadows chicken with curry emulsion and ginger. For the Afternoon Tea purists, there is also a collection of Arlington egg with mustard cress and a reinterpretation of the original Victorian classic through cucumber, mint, yoghurt and sumac.
Warm scones with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry jam, with or without sultanas, are then presented as the next delicacy, all served in true Cornish style with cream first to avoid any of the age-old arguments breaking out.
A Fitting Finale
Guests are then guided towards the true dessert course with a triptych of pastry treats that celebrate famous spies of World War II. Odette is a velvety smooth pairing of raspberry and rose-flavoured tea named in tribute to the brave liaison for the French resistance. Vera tantalisingly conceals layers of chocolate and hazelnut beneath a shimmering mirrored glaze, with the name referencing a Senior Intelligence Officer. And the Christine pastry uses pistachio cherry to fantastic effect for a name that is often linked to Churchill’s favourite spy, Krystyna Skarbeck. The ultimate showpiece for this course is Time to Spy, a chocolate mousse sculpted in the shape of a pocket watch that Allied agents would carry on missions behind enemy lines.
A Matter of Taste
Despite such exquisite delicacies across the food menu, the tea remains the real star and the selection at The OWO is an exemplary list, drawn from all over the globe. The Raffles Tea Sommeliers have curated a collection of iconic, top-tier loose-leaf teas that represent the most impressive growers and brands currently available. First Flush Darjeeling and Silver Needle white tea are delicate and aromatic options, with the more robust and perfumed Sencha and Lapsang Souchong providing weight and body to the cup. There are also two house blends that are exclusive to the hotel, with The Churchill being a particularly smoky and spicy leaf and The Drawing Room delivering floral elements of rose and bergamot for a lighter sip.
If the occasion does demand it, there is always the option to factor in a flute of Louis Roederer or English sparkling rosé with a Champagne Afternoon Tea service that could well be the perfect aperitif for an evening at the theatre. Although, whatever the show, it will have to go quite some way to beating the drama and storytelling that unfolds at The OWO.
Taking Tea with History
Afternoon Tea at The OWO is where prestige, service and experience are each guaranteed to be of the highest quality possible. All in a location that holds the memories and energy of some of the most important and interesting espionage operations that took place in the 20th century. Keeping this amazing place a secret may even have been a task too difficult for the greats that once walked these hallowed halls.
