The wristwatch has a fascinating history that goes a long way to explaining the hold and status it has amongst popular culture and fashion. From sundials in ancient civilisations to the mechanical timekeeping of European Monks in the Middle Ages, the pursuit of understanding and observing the passage of time has driven great leaps in engineering, design and notably has also had a huge impact on the way innovative jewellery design continues to develop.
Charting this history allows us to see how significant discoveries and revelations inspired the humble watch to become a true 20th century icon. There are several references and stories to clock bracelets commissioned for kings and queens during the last 500 years but some landmark moments, like the creation of manufacturing methods for spring mechanisms that allowed smaller, and more intricate designs made the watch really take shape. As the First World War strengthened its grip around the globe, the wristwatch was touted as a vital, reliable and essential accessory for troops on all sides and was catapulted into the public domain.
Since then, there have been millions of watches made, solid with a dizzying array of features, designs and stories attached to them. Take a look through some of the most impressive and elaborate ever created on our list of the most expensive watches in the world.
Graff Diamonds Hallucination
This creation is undoubtedly one of the most prestigious and expensive timepieces that the world has ever seen with its estimated value at an astronomical $55 Million. It is an exquisite kaleidoscope of extremely rare diamonds that creates a rainbow of colour in shimmering tones of pinks, blues, greens and oranges with over 110 carats in total combining for the pinnacle of Haute Horlogorie. The esteemed British Jeweller, Graff, is responsible for the Hallucination, and their reputation for manufacturing luxury watches with precious stones is unmatched anywhere on earth, with Naomi Campbell, Queen Elizabeth II and even Suleyman The Magnificent of Turkey all featuring in the story of this unique luxury brand and its products. The Graff Diamonds Hallucination was unveiled at the Baselworld Watch & Jewellery Show over a decade ago and has been at the pinnacle of expensive watches on almost every list ever since.
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Patek Philipe Grandmaster Chime
The Swiss watchmaker brand Patek Philipe has held a huge influence over wristwatch design and manufacturing methods that date back to the founder’s innovations and creations of the mid 19th Century. It is widely accepted that the Grandmaster Chime is the most complex and intricate Patek Philipe model ever produced and in 2019 a one of a kind timepiece was crafted in stainless steel to help celebrate the 175th anniversary of the pioneering man. 20 complications adorn this majestic watch with over 1300 individual parts that work flawlessly across two exquisite dials in ebony black and salmon. Amongst the traditional moon phase display and day or night indicator are a couple of patented features that first appeared on the Grandmaster Chime, the acoustic alarm and date repeater that only add to its elusive and exclusive attraction. The remarkable price of £31.19 Million was reached as it went under the hammer with the profits going towards research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
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Breguet Grande Complication Marie Antoinette
It is often said the most expensive and sought after items are desired because of the stories they carry and the hands and hearts they have touched. The Breguet Grande Complication Marie Antoinette is the most perfect example of this philosophy in action for the watchmaking world and markets. This is a timepiece with history, intrigue and romance etched on every minute marker and hand. The tale goes that a mysterious admirer learned of the Queen’s love for Breguet’s immaculate craftsmanship and products and so commissioned a watch as a gift for her. They demanded that it be as spectacular as possible with gold replacing every other metal, and an unlimited budget and timeframe was given to ensure that no detail would be compromised. Unfortunately, she never got to see it as it was only completed 44 years after the initial request, and a full 34 years after her death. This impeccable symbol of love and luxury is now estimated to be worth a rather grand $30 Million.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette
The provenance of any luxury jewellery item will always be the most telling and important part of its valuation and for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Manchette, it holds particular prestige and significance. This is a royally appointed model of a timepiece that was handcrafted specifically for HRH Queen Elizabeth II from white gold with an array of diamonds and ultra-precious gemstones completing the regal and opulent design. There is a long standing tradition of gifting watches to royalty that often drives new designs, features and complications as well as being a huge honour to the fortunate brands that are commissioned with their creation. This wonderful timepiece showcases the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101, recognised as one of the smallest mechanical movements in the world and is currently valued at a cool $26 Million.
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Patek Philipe Henry Graves Supercomplication
Henry Graves Junior made his fortune as part of a wealthy family of bankers in New York city in the early part of the 20th Century. However, it is probably his obsession for collecting rare and unique watches, and the impact this eventually had on the science of watchmaking, that he will be remembered for. Famously, he had a long standing competition with the automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard to see who could own the most complicated and interesting timepieces. He commissioned the legendary watchmaker Patek Philipe to make him the most complicated watch ever created in 1925, and eight years later the Henry Graves Supercomplication was duly completed and delivered. It has 24 functions that include an astonishing celestial chart of the New York City night sky as seen from Graves’s own apartment at the time. It remained the most complicated watch on the planet for over 60 years and now commands a bet-winning price of around $26 Million.
As our list shows, the humble watch can become so much more than a simple time-telling tool. The most expensive watches in the world all share the credentials of having a wonderful story to tell with an extraordinary price to match it. They are all destined to be remembered and sought after for a very long time to come.
