The competition for fine dining is very much a global pursuit in the 21st century. Over the last 25 years, there have been incredible developments in the way the best restaurants in the world approach their entire experience, with the most talented chefs working hard to create memorable meals in awe-inspiring locations. Every detail is deliberated over, tested and designed to align in a cohesive way with the diners who are guided through a remarkable journey that is so much more than food on the plate. Achieving the right lighting, furnishing, finishes and overall ambience is the result of painstaking attention throughout a process that can often take years, even decades, to perfect.
Of course, these ultra-exacting standards and the time they take to apply do inevitably come at a high cost. The experiential element of spending time in these places makes an afternoon or evening here feel more akin to a lifestyle event, and one that is extremely coveted by those fortunate enough to do so. The lengthy waiting times to secure a booking can easily act as evidence of just how sought-after a seat at these prestigious tables is.
Our guide takes a look at a superb collection of the most exclusive and expensive restaurants in the world.
Alchemist, Copenhagen
Rasmus Munk has been pushing past the boundaries of food as an art form for several years and Alchemist has been his home for the last decade. This is where he creates menus and experiences that use cuisines as commentary for issues that range from identity, the ongoing crisis of the planet’s climate and our overall sensory perception as human beings. This former boat building warehouse in the Refshaleøn district of Copenhagen invites guests into a journey through the dramatic bronze doors and into several theatrical spaces that include a grand domed hall, a huge wine cellar and a collection of intimate lounges where the menu works alongside a story for an immersive and experiential event that lives long in the memory. A grand total of 50 ‘impressions’ are served across five distinct acts for a total of six to seven hours, with some notable past dishes including freeze-dried butterfly and lamb brains in a human head mold. There is no doubt that Alchemist can be challenging, but it is inherently rewarding and there is nowhere else like it in the world. The Sommelier’s Table offering costs around £2000 per guest and is the ultimate way to completely enjoy and appreciate this transformative and remarkable restaurant.
Sublimotion, Ibiza
It should come as no surprise that the combination of double-Michelin-starred chef Paco Roncero and the show-producer Eduardo Gonzáles has achieved a restaurant experience that marries the finest quality food with theatrical extravagance. Sublimotion is centred around a single table that seats only 12 guests with 360 degrees of projected screens augmented by VR headsets, constantly changing lighting and even humidity control that aids an immersive storytelling experience that is out of this world. Diners are transported through different landscapes, dreamscapes and cabaret atmospheres across a 3-hour sitting that culminates on a private terrace beneath the famous Ibiza skies. Amongst the exquisitely prepared dishes of Japanese Wagyu, ultra-rare caviar and truffles is a philosophy of molecular gastronomy that Paco has become famous for. You can expect to witness floating plates, thrilling smoke shows with accompanying drinks and interactive Amuse Bouchés that provide a cohesive narrative arc to proceedings, with help from illusionists, choreographers and sound designers.
There is an emotional heart to Sublimotion that is unlike any other restaurant in the world, with a minimalist yet futuristic energy that regularly sees patrons such as Cristiano Ronaldo, Cher and Christina Aguilera filling the few seats available. This place remains at the top of the most expensive restaurant in the world lists for many guides, with an average sitting costing around £1600 per head.
Masa, New York City
The sushi master Masa Takayama brought Japanese omakase to previously uncharted heights when he opened Masa in New York over 20 years ago. Everything about this restaurant is driven by an elegant and understated confidence that seems set apart from its surroundings in the heat and movement of Midtown Manhattan. The 26-foot-long sushi counter carved from a single piece of hinoki wood serves as testament to the obsessive details Masa is held to, as it is sanded every single day to keep it pristine and functioning perfectly. There is no signage here, no music and no fuss with an experience that pushes minimalism to the point of austerity with the only focus on the chef and the food they create. Ingredients are sourced and flown in daily from Tokyo’s Toyosu market to prepare dishes that change daily, with Ohmi Wagyu with white truffle, Foie Gras Nigiri and Geoduck and Abalone Sashimi proving to be regular highlights.
Masa is the embodiment of Masa Takayama’s ethos, where the food and the mindful ceremony of preparation and consumption are a spiritual journey. Guests are encouraged to commit to this idea with no fragrances worn and no photography allowed in order to protect the experience. With three Michelin stars, Masa is consistently marked as the most expensive restaurant in New York City, with patrons such as Larry Gagosian and Agnes Gund keen to take their seat at the counter for an average price of around £850 a sitting.
Restaurant de l’Hotel de Ville, Switzerland
The former town hall of Crissier in Switzerland is home to this three-Michelin-starred institution that represents the pinnacle of classic gourmet dining. With over 70 years of history behind it, Restaurant de l’Hotel de Ville was established by Benjamin Girardet and evolved under the guidance of his son Frédy to earn its first start in the 1970s. Frédy was even awarded the incredible honour of being hailed the cook of the century alongside Bocuse and Robuchon, making a trio that is widely recognised as the fathers of modern gastronomy. Beautiful interiors, crisp white linens and a subtle intimacy paired with classic techniques made this place a destination for a list of prestigious chefs over generations. From Rochat and Violier to Fredy’s own prodigy, Franck Giovannini, who has been at the helm since 2012, they all maintain the flawless standards and have made their own mark on the restaurant.
It is often said that sauces at the Restaurant de l’Hotel de Ville are the source of its greatness. The deep, complex and nuanced reductions in the coralline sauce with the lobster medallions stand amongst the greatest example that has patrons and plaudits stacking up to celebrate it. The 11-course Gastronomique Menu is around £400 per head for the dishes only, and as you would expect, a world-class wine list is on hand to accompany it. The service is polished to perfection too, for a timeless restaurant experience that has so much style it will surely never go out of fashion.
There is a deeply gratifying aspect in being allowed to witness artisans at the very top of their game. When the chefs and their creations at these fine restaurants are aligned with innovation, dramatic narrative journeys and some of the most interesting locations possible, it is impossible not to be moved by an interaction with them. Although the numbers on the checks may be higher than most other places in the world, the experience itself can be priceless.
