Nick Beardshaw is fast becoming one of the most important and well respected British chefs, perfectly representing a new generation that combines technical precision with accessibility in their outlook. His apprenticeship was served in some style at first with tutelage from Daniel Clifford at Midsummer House in Cambridge and later with 14 years at the right hand of Tom Kerridge in the two-Michelin starred surroundings of Hand & Flowers in Marlow. Like many of his peers, it was the BBC culinary showcase Great British Menu that first really put Nick in the public eye when his fish course A Moon Shaped Pool was crowned the winner of the south west heat in 2023 and was selected for the eventual banquet. It then seemed inevitable that his own restaurant would soon be taking its own shape.
Home to Esher
It was a simple decision for Nick to house his first premises in the wonderful Surrey town of Esher. Living locally, he was able to draw on the personal ties that made the town and its surrounding areas his home. The ultimate aim of creating ‘a neighbourhood restaurant that reflected who I am and where I live’ was perfectly served and when the corner building site on High Street became available the stars seemed perfectly aligned. With so much potential and a prime position secured Nick trusted that the Esher residents would be ready for his own developing vision of culinary prowess and made the leap to open in August 2024.
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Rise to the Stars
It speaks volumes about the status of Starling and the quality of product, brand and experience that it took only six months for the restaurant to be officially recognised with a Michelin star in February 2025. Their glowing report highlighted a lack of pretension that made it all the more endearing when such high standards were clearly being achieved. The foundation for Nick’s neighbourhood restaurant was, as Michelin had observed; ‘the kind of seemingly straightforward dishes that are tricky to pull off yet so easy to eat’.
Delicate Design
From the outside, there was always a requirement for Starling to be seen on Esher High Street without having to shout. The mix of Royal and Midnight blue on the façade achieves that with strength and elegance so that the diners’ first impression is one of subtle confidence in what can be found inside. The award-winning British interior designer Eve Cullen-Cornes was responsible for a beautiful restaurant that revolves around a joyful concept drawn from the natural habitat of the starling bird. Reflections of the sky, trees and the sun are all evident in the materials and hues chosen with a mix of woody tones, putty pinks and azure blues. Additional details such as the copper starling light pendants gracefully hanging over the marble-topped bar cast soft colours on the diners as they face a striking open kitchen. Overall, it has a real identity that feels spacious and informal with minimal effort and a pleasing balance.
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A Simple Philosophy Perfectly Executed
The deceptively simple small menus seldom run longer than five choices per course with the finest quality British produce celebrated throughout. There is no fear of innovation however, with some deft touches from Asian influence that of course include the Orkney scallop with Thai green curry sauce. Everything remains true to the guiding principle that Nick advocates: eating as a joyful and relaxing experience best enjoyed with friends and laughter. Hearty dishes like the ricotta dumplings with salt baked swede, chanterelles and old Winchester cheese sauce offer plenty of robust flavours and the flair of venison loin with blackberry ketchup, Savoy cabbage and black pudding croustillant is a particular showcase.
Personal and Perfect
One of the defining elements of Nick’s approach is the personal investment that every dish at Starling is charged with. This allows his cooking to become part of the culture that has informed his own life, as illustrated with his winning Great British Menu being named after the 2016 Radiohead album A Moon Shaped Pool. Similarly, the Balloon Girl dessert of a raspberry cheesecake and chocolate torte hybrid is inspired by the iconic image created by the graffiti artist Banksy. Everything has intent, meaning and purpose that keeps Starling connected to Nick's own world and what is important to him. It also helps immeasurably that he remains a hands-on presence at the restaurant, greeting guests and always ready and willing to engage in conversations about his creations.
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Raising a Glass
The wine list at Starling is compact and well-curated with options by the glass for some interesting options such as the English sparkling Rathfinny. An imaginative cocktail menu offers Freezer Martini and Barrel Aged Solera Negroni alongside the rather more adventurous Baller Bacon & Chilli Vodka Bloody Mary. A quick conversation with the excellent and attentive waiting staff will always let you know how to pair appropriately with the menu or course.
In the prestigious world of high-end restaurants, reputation will only get one so far. From there it is down to the hard work, imagination, dedication and commitment to technique that determines whether a place succeeds or fails. In the case of Starling, Nick Beardshaw has earned a pass with flying colours that has allowed him to spread his wings and create something truly special. For that, the people of Esher will certainly be happy for a long time yet.
