The Beginnings of The Birkin
When Birkin bags were first introduced back in 1984 by Hermès, they very quickly became symbolic of a rarified wealth and exclusivity. But could anybody - including the French luxury goods maker - have realistically predicted the stratospheric status and value they have now? The bag was named by Hermès after the stunningly beautiful English-French actress and singer Jane Birkin who was struggling to find a suitable travel bag while travelling around Paris and London. These deeply-worshipped tote bags are handmade from leather, or other more exotic skins beyond mere cow hide, and often adorned with precious metals and jewels. Intrinsically, then, the value of the bag is high, but right from the off in the 80s, the bag became a highly coveted status symbol.
Mystique and Allure
Birkins were once seen as the rarest handbag in the world, and thought that is clearly no longer the case, the vibrant resales market is fiercely competitive: they retain a sense of mystique and are a must-have for all handbag collectors who can acquire one (or more) - and investors. They are also a sledgehammer status symbol - in the world of high-end fashion or the Hollywood A-list, nothing gets the message across so powerfully, or so instantaneously, as a limited edition Birkin: ‘I belong’. Distributed to Hermès boutiques in limited quantities and on unpredictable schedules, the scarcity and exclusivity of Birkin bags is hard to pin down.
Creating Couture
It’s worth going back in time for a quick history lesson to outline the depth of quality of the bag, and the origins of its esteemed maker. All Hermès bags are handmade in France using the company's signature saddle stitching, which was artfully and painstakingly developed in the 19th century. Each bag is hand-sewn by a single artisan, and is then buffed, painted, and polished. The double stitch, using the finest quality leather, is the ultimate measure of quality: it stands up to wear-and-tear far better, and for much longer than a machine stitch, providing the ultimate back up. If one of the two stitches gives way, the other will keep doing its job. This stitching process can take up to 18 hours alone, with some bags are reported to take up to a decade to finish, and legend has it that the best Hermès craftsmen train for at least five years before they are allowed to make their first Birkin. The craftsmanship involved in creating a Birkin is breathtaking, and the costs reflect that.
The Price of Fame
The simple economics of supply and demand have driven up prices for the last 20 years, and sometimes a Birkin can sell for multiples of the original retail price, which often adds to the legend of that particular bag. Resale return on investment figures are pretty astonishing: certain research shows that between 1981 and 2016, value went up a colossal 500 per cent. No doubt this is fuelled by the cachet of celebrity devotees, and especially in more recent times, the power of social media: Birkin-owners include Kim Kardashian, Paris Hilton, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Lady Gaga and Victoria Beckham, who reputedly owns more than 100 Birkins - valued at over $2 million. Here are some prime examples of stellar Birkin bags, some of which are for sale today.
CROCODILE NILOTICUS HIMALAYA BIRKIN 30
(18K White Gold & Diamond Hardware)
With a reported waiting list of six years for a new Birkin bag, and the market rising steadily, many buyers or investors don’t wait - they look for what is available now, via resale. Sotheby's has a selection of Birkins on its Buy Now Marketplace, and chief among them is one of the most coveted Birkin bags in the world today. This Crocodile Niloticus Himalaya 30, released in 2021, is genuinely stunning - with the Himalaya Birkin arguably the most famous and coveted Birkin bag of all. Made from Niloticus crocodile leather, chief among its range of incredible features is an 18K white gold and diamond padlock, and, inlaid throughout the bag, a total pavé diamond count of nearly 250. Beyond highlights such as the leather padlock pouch, padlock box, two 18K white gold keys, and diamond and white gold material booklet, the interior is lined in gris cendré chèvre leather, and there are French assay and workshop marks. With this Matt White Crocodile Niloticus Himalaya Birkin, the astonishing design and limited availability give it a $300,000 price tag. In 2022, a diamond Himalaya Birkin sold for over $440,000 at auction; a record for the most expensive handbag at that time.
JANE BIRKIN’S BLACK TOGO BIRKIN 35
This Birkin could hardly have been more desirable when it was sold at auction in 2021: it was formerly owned by Jane Birkin herself, the songwriter, actress and model who inspired its creation - her cat had even slept in it, and left bite marks on the handle. Going for around $150,000 - five times its pre-sale estimate - the provenance of the bag was even stronger thanks to an accompanying letter from Birkin herself, her personal signature (done in Tipp-Ex) on the interior, and a simple red cord tied by her around the handle. But the real magic can be traced back to that chance meeting on an Air France flight with Jean-Louis Dumas, the then-CEO of Hermès, when they were chatting about the inadequacy of the bag Birkin was using at the time. She groaned to Dumas that she could never find a suitable leather weekend bag - something stylish, but also big and practical. Dumas listened, and began sketching out an initial design on an aeroplane sick bag. Thus an iconic handbag was born. It is worth noting, though Birkin was honoured to have a bag named after her, she was not in thrall to their luxury and exclusivity, auctioning them off for charitable causes. What would be the resale value now of an original Birkin-owned Birkin now? One can only guess.
NATA PRINTED SWIFT IN AND OUT KELLY BIRKIN 25
(Retourne Palladium Hardware)
Hermès enthusiasts rave about this limited-edition bag, which combines two of the most coveted styles: the Birkin and Kelly. The overall design draws on the signature top handle and more structured, ladylike form of the latter, blending irresistibility with the Birkin’s casual, everyday functionality. This potent fusion of two iconic Hermès handbag silhouettes is underpinned by their signature unrivalled craftsmanship and artistic creativity par excellence. Made from Swift leather, in an ivory white shade with delicate undertones, it's a more compact, versatile Birkin (compared to the ‘30’ range) and this is seen as a highly portable positive. Beyond this, because of playful printed design, and exclusivity owing to limited production, the Nata Printed Swift In and Out Kelly Birkin 25 is both a coveted fashion statement and a valuable collectible piece. Currently available at Sothebys.com for $29,000.
Birkins have reframed what handbags can represent. They’ve grown to become cultural icons: a potently symbolic cocktail where ultra-luxurious craftsmanship, influential zeitgeist celebrities, exclusive rare materials, and cutting-edge fashion history all collide - often with record-breaking auction houses as the playground. Birkins have allure and security; they all have a padlock. Gaining entry to the world of Birkin ownership is to be given the golden key.
