So magnetic is the pull of Edinburgh, visitors flock to the city as a clock ticks round its face. So what are the specific, seasonal joys of a place that shines right across the calendar, year-in year-out? It’s merely a matter of taste and preference. Such is the breadth of offer in the capital of Scotland, there are genuine arguments for going at any time of the year – but to help unpick your preference, here is our handy guide throughout the seasons.
SUMMER (JUNE-AUGUST)
Summer in Edinburgh is endlessly vibrant, and August is truly an assault on the senses. The city teems with life, taken over by a thrilling cultural heavyweight that draws people in from all over the planet – the Edinburgh Fringe is indeed the largest arts festival in the world. With thousands of performers doing their best to entertain – via comedy, theatre, and music (and often a combination of all) – more than two million visitors pour into Edinburgh to sample the special, rarefied atmosphere. The city feels particularly community-minded and unified during Festival season – on streets, parks, cafes, bars, theatres, basements, and any performance space possible – everyone has something in common, and it’s easy to make new friends and form connections. Running concurrently with the Fringe is the Edinburgh International Festival, which features a different category and tone of performers – with world-class opera and dance drawing in huge crowds at leading venues within the city.
If you want a slightly quieter life, but don’t want to shun the summer festival scene altogether, be sure to plug into the Edinburgh International Book Festival, which gathers writers and readers for a series of discussions, readings, and signings. Summer, as its name suggests, also means the ‘best’ weather – and while scorching sunshine might not be on the cards every day – we are in Scotland after all – gorgeously light and late summer evenings are a joy to behold, as the birds chirrup with the sun going down as late as 11 pm in late June. Always have a rain mac to hand though. Showers are not uncommon.
AUTUMN (SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER)
Deep bronze, vivid red, burnt orange, glowing gold – the list continues. A majestic riot of Autumn colour transforms this pretty tree-lined city once the leaves turn. With a steady calm setting in after the frenetic buzz of Festival season, Edinburgh definitely feels special. Temperatures start to drop and evenings get shorter, but the Autumnal atmosphere builds on – favourite jumpers and warm scarves at the ready. There’s nothing better than capitalising on a crisp morning by walking through the city’s beautiful open spaces to admire the unfurling of nature’s palette – The Meadows, Princes Street Gardens, and Holyrood Park, where hiking and photography are particularly popular. To the north of the city centre, The Royal Botanic Gardens is a standout attraction, offering a varied experience with the passing of each season. Autumn showcases how plants from around the world react to the time of year.
Once the legs are weary, cosying up and watching the world go by – whether in a bijou Marchmont or Stockbridge coffee shop or lounging in the window of a quaint bookstore with a scone and hot chocolate – is the perfect way to spend a lazy Edinburgh afternoon. Alternatively, if you’re feeling expressive and want to fully participate with mankind – whether to be entertained by others or perhaps have a bewitching tale to tell yourself – the International Storytelling Festival is packed with special events and interactive workshops. For something a bit darker, and to coincide with Halloween, there is also the Edinburgh Horror Festival: a spooky blend of theatre, comedy, magic, and city tours. As a foodie hotspot, Edinburgh restaurants and cafes also respond with seasonal menus: hearty dishes made with fresh, local ingredients such as game, root vegetables, and autumn fruits.
WINTER (DECEMBER-FEBRUARY)
The early months of winter are a time of serious celebration in Scotland, with Edinburgh the twinkly-lit honeypot for people all over Britain and beyond. Christmas markets, Burns Night, and Hogmanay – all of them are treated with reverence and abandon, and all of them have brilliantly idiosyncratic customs and distinct ways of marking the occasion. Yes – winter days in Scotland can be cold and dark and wet. But that doesn’t dampen the spirits of people in the city – if anything, the Scots respond to the challenging weather with joyful defiance.
Christmas speaks for itself – it’s a huge celebration that seems to start earlier each year, with shops decked out with beautiful displays from mid-November. That’s when the markets get going, with all manner of entertainment and food/craft stalls from which to sample festive treats. Special events in the city are more frequent as the city builds towards Christmas Day on December 25. Carol concerts – both indoor and outdoor, whether as a communal participant or simply an audience member – are an atmospheric feature at this time of year.
Hogmanay? Quite simply this is the Scottish celebration of New Year's Eve and one of the most famous New Year celebrations in the world. Amid the street party and midnight fireworks, the Torchlight Procession is a real highlight. It kicks off the Hogmanay celebrations, with thousands of torchbearers creating a river of light through the city, with the procession often following a route from the historic Royal Mile to Holyrood Park. Symbolising reflection and friendship, Auld Lang Syne – a traditional song penned by Scotland's national poet Robert Burns – is always sung at midnight. As the name suggests, Burns Night is a celebration of his life and works, held annually on January 25th. The tradition began shortly after his death in 1796 and has grown to become a huge cultural event in Scotland. The quietest time to visit Edinburgh is February to April, but the appeal still holds. The city is undeniably romantic, there is space to roam, and you could enjoy a covering of fresh snow.
SPRING (MARCH-MAY)
Once again, nature waves its magic wand and the city is bejewelled: from April through to mid May, you’ll find yourself surrounded by stunning rows of pink and white blossom trees, lining the streets, poking out of gardens, framing cafes and churches, decorating your journey from one place to the next. After the hibernation of the coldest and darkest winter months – when most people are to be found indoors enjoying themselves – the outdoors emerges as an attractive proposition, and many walkers and runners take the chance to push on with fitness goals and the sun starts to poke out and days get longer. Festival season starts to warm up too. Edinburgh International Children’s Festival clicks into gear at the end of May, with thrilling theatre, dance, and creative performances. Productions from around the world strive to engage with pressing themes, like the environment, war, consumerism, and racial discrimination. So while much of the content is thought-provoking and challenging, it’s expertly tailored for young audiences – and will entertain them too.
Edinburgh is truly a city for all seasons and you may decide to return again and again to experience them all. Once is never enough to visit this incredible destination that is recognised amongst the world’s finest hotspots of unique and enthralling tourist activity, and we are sure that this guide will only be the beginning for you too.
