British style in the 20th and 21st centuries owes a lot to the enduring appeal and versatility of the male suit. Visually, it has been a cornerstone of fashion identity for England, with locations and even streets such as the world-famous Savile Row in Mayfair becoming a byword for tailoring authority and understated elegance.
Even as the formal attire requirements associated with the suit began to fall away, the demand for this British tailoring tradition remained and it now serves as a wonderful status symbol to add inimitable style to business and landmark social events.
In 2025, the male suit represents a trend that continues to evolve and inspire the entire fashion industry. Here is our guide to the very best.
Henry Poole & Co
The Poole family has an undeniable heritage that stretches back over generations, beginning with James Poole stitching uniforms worn by English soldiers during the Napoleonic wars. In the mid 19th century, his son Henry started Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row and is often credited as one of the famous street’s founding fathers. Everything we now understand about English tailoring owes a huge debt to him, with designs offering a combination of elegance and practicality that made male suits more wearable and desirable. His popularisation of the shorter length dinner jacket is a wonderful example of how his influence pervades some 200 years later.
The precise style and time-intensive methods are still evident in the approach for the modern day, with a slightly nipped waist and contoured shoulders still acting as the defining features of Henry Poole & Co suits.
Gieves & Hawkes
The military influence on suits is also present in the impressive history of Gieves & Hawkes. Through the merger of Thomas Hawkes and James Gieves, who produced clothing for the British army and Navy respectively, another name on Savile Row was created that is synonymous with style. And if occupying the ultra-prestigious address of Number One Savile Row wasn’t enough to satisfy anybody of its impeccable credentials then the list of its patrons is more than capable of doing so. King George V and King George VI were both esteemed customers here as was Winston Churchill. A fully bespoke suit from Gieves & Hawkes involves a number of fittings that draw on the fine tradition of tailoring to establish the precise drape and comfort from chosen fabrics on the body. The result here is always a sophisticated and structured cut with an air of discipline and masculine shapes. A superb addition to any wardrobe.
Richard James
The ability of UK suit brands and tailors to adapt during changing tastes and times is at the foundation of their success. This often means that a new pioneer appears and takes risks that allow the established peers to literally follow suit after they have observed them. Richard James fulfilled this role for Savile Row tailoring in 1992 when he and his business partner Sean Dixon took up residence to usher in a new era for the male suit. The brand experimented with bolder checks, they reimagined stripes patterns with vibrant jewel tones that marked a much more unconventional palette than most were used to. Importantly, the house remains aligned to the age-old methods and traditions of tailoring albeit with a more future-focussed outlook. Bespoke pieces from Richard James can often be seen in the wild on some of the modern day’s biggest fashion icons from Elton John to Daniel Craig. Despite its relatively new status in the suit world, Richard James is clearly now stitched into the fabric of it for good reason.
Paul Smith
In the annals of modern tailoring there are very few names that can compete with Paul Smith for quality, excellence and timeless style. Sir Paul Smith’s unique perspective led to a reinterpretation of the English suit that straddled the end of the 20th century and made great strides into the 21st. There is a value of expression within his designs that create a playful aspect to the suit with bold linings, confidently muted tones and nuanced details. For many, this is the perfect representation of a quintessential English style in the tailoring world, with a personality that seeks to promote individuality while using the highest grade materials and cutting processes.. The brand has created bespoke pieces for some serious fashion heavyweights from David Bowie to David Beckham, and with the current renaissance for 1990s fashion, Paul Smith is finding itself on the top shelf for suits once more.
Dunhill
The journey of fashion brands can occasionally have surprising beginnings, twists and turns. The Dunhill story has its roots in motoring accessories and the tobacco industry before their evolution into a complete luxury and aspirational goods provider.
A Dunhill suit leans on the classic English style of balanced proportions, flattering symmetry and structured shoulder styles, augmented by some of the most coveted fabrics and materials available anywhere in the world. They use fine woollens including merino, cashmere and worsted wools, tooled in the world’s most prestigious mills such as Abraham & Sons in West Yorkshire, Johnstons of Elgin in Scotland and Lanificio F.lli Cerruti in Italy, to wonderful effect. It is this precise, subtle and reliable style that makes Dunhill a particular favourite for red carpet outings with Andrew Garfield, Benedict Cumberbatch, Tom Hiddleston and Henry Cavill all happy to be seen as patrons of the brand.
UK suit brands have long assumed the responsibility of ensuring that a tailored and structured approach to men’s outfitting remains a cohesive mix of form and function. The adaptable designs and innovations they demonstrate are certain to wield yet more influence on the emerging trends, styles and even culture for many years to come. Commissioning your own suit with bespoke tailoring from any of the selections in our guide will ensure that you are similarly dressed for success.
