One of London’s greatest neighbourhoods, Islington combines a relaxed café culture with period architecture and a thriving independent arts community. With cobbled back streets and leafy green squares, the area has captured the imagination of Britain's greatest writers, from Charles Dickens to, J.K Rowling. Such is the demand to live in Islington it remains the most densely populated borough in the UK, and with such numbers, the expectation for quality dining options in one of London’s most gentrified areas, is particularly high.
There is no shortage of excellent bodegas, brasseries, bakeries, and every other form of restaurant premise along Upper Street, or in the pretty green squares dotted across the area. Islington offers far more low-key options than say, the streets of Mayfair and Knightsbridge, yet the food quality in a neighbourhood where competition is fierce, is exceptionally high. The following options are among the best Islington has to offer diners.
Trullo
Just a stone’s throw away from Highbury and Islington station, Trullo is the sister restaurant to Borough Market’s ever-popular fresh pasta spot, Padella. From the mind of owner/operator Tim Siadatan – one of the first graduates from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen project, Trullo is a medley between classic Italian dishes and seasonal British ingredients. Delicious hand-rolled pasta is the base for most dishes on the menu, which is updated daily and includes a selection of dishes from the restaurant's wood fire grill.
The results are definitive, and delicious, with an inspired blend of both flavours and techniques which revamps classic plates from both cuisines. Lemon sole served with purple sprouting broccoli, roasted garlic, and toasted hazelnuts. Slow-cooked shoulder of lamb served with morels, wild garlic, and milk. Ricotta doughnuts with vanilla custard and amaretto roasted nespole – not a dessert many would have conceived for a fusion between British and Italian dishes, but at Trullo, currently operating a pop-up in Harvey Nichols' legendary department store, it’s all part of the service.
Westerns Laundry
One of the select few restaurants in Islington to receive the attention of the Michelin guide, Westerns Laundry is a stripped-back experience, recognised with a Bib Gourmand for sustained excellence, value, and excellent quality cooking. Blackboards are updated in chalk daily to signpost menu options, an old-school and far more informal approach to dining, which is emphasised by the rustic interior and communal seating plan and of course, such warm and welcoming interiors inevitably mirror the items on the menu.
Whilst not exactly comfort food, the menu at Westerns Laundry offers a post-modern interpretation of British cuisine, predominately focussing on seasonal seafood. As such, items consistently come on and off the signature blackboards as the seasons change, but one constant addition is the excellent rum baba, along with various small plates such as patas bravas, croquettes, and sourdough sourced from Jolene, the sister restaurant come bakery in Newington Green.
Jolene
Speaking of Jolene, the restaurant is an ideal stopping point for those looking for lighter breakfasts or lunches within Islington. Operating as a bakery throughout the day, Jolene’s signature item is its fantastic sourdough, although there is a selection of fresh-baked pastries, cakes, tarts, and more delicious bites to be enjoyed over coffee or, as an accompaniment to lunch.
The bakery has plenty of options to take away for an impromptu picnic on Newington Green on the warmer days of the year. When it comes to lunch, Jolene shines through freshly made pasta dishes and antipasti, which can be enlarged to encompass generous sharing platters and fantastic Sunday Roasts. The restaurant’s post-industrial aesthetic is complimented by warm, low-hanging lampshades, and feels very reminiscent of Scandinavian-style dining. There is a fantastic selection of organic wines to be enjoyed with lunch, which pairs perfectly with a restaurant committed to producing fresh and organic food.
Primeur
Another recipient of a Bib Gourmand (there are only 34 in total across London), Primeur excels at small plates, with dishes from across the continent that are made with locally sourced ingredients, focusing on quality over strict adherence to the original recipe. Bistro-style food is appropriate for the surroundings – working out of a converted garage, Primeur makes use of both tables and counter seating in nearly every corner of the restaurant.
The menu offers choice bites of smoked ox tongue, bavette steak with roasted lentils, and burrata with artichoke and mint dressing, accompanied by creative side dishes such as sprouts with lemon and parmesan, and the ever-present pickled anchovies. Primeur is one of Islington’s most surprising restaurants, packing a raft of curated flavours on smaller plates that punch well above this bistro-lite setting.
Farang
As a former pop-up restaurant, Farang offers a journey through the flavours of Thailand by keeping its street-food origins intact, fielding a variety of plates that comprise locally sourced British ingredients and pack in plenty of flavour. With so much on offer, it is fortunate that groups can indulge a little with the sharing menus so that many of the delightful small plates can be sampled in one sitting.
The word “farang” translates to foreigner – but diners will feel at home amongst the cosy interiors of this Bib Gourmand celebration of Thai cuisine. Menu highlights include dishes such as tiger prawns tossed in salted turmeric, Gai-Prik chicken, braised beef jungle curry and smoked haddock, salmon, and cod fishcakes. Playing with classic flavours that strike the perfect balance between sweet and sour, Farang is one of Islington’s best alternative takes on Thai food.
Bellanger
A meeting of two very distinct cuisines – Bellanger combines the feel of a Parisian grand café with a Milanese bistro. The food encompasses the best of both countries, with crowd-pleasing favourites such as steak au poivre and chicken Milanese, duck confit, crab linguine, and many more comforting staples. Open for service from morning to evening, the restaurant is the idle setting for an informal meal, at any hour.
At Bellanger, the vivid restaurant interior is effortlessly French, with red leather banquette seating that's uniform everywhere from the bar stools to the corner booths, and walls covered in artwork from the 1960s. The only possible upgrade to the seating is to dine al fresco out on the terrace, underneath glorious sunshine whilst taking in the scenery by Islington Green. Bellanger brings the allure and elegance of classic continental dining to the leafy green streets of Islington.
