What do the motley ‘celebrity’ crew of Queen Victoria, Albert Einstein, Pablo Picasso, Brad Pitt, and Leonardo DiCaprio have in common? They have all been owners of phenomenally beautiful timepieces made by Patek Philippe, one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world. The allure of this luxury Swiss jeweller has deep foundations: Patek Philippe was founded in 1839 in Geneva by Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe, who forged a company at the forefront of pioneering innovation in their field. Ironically, the key to success lay in a keyless winding mechanism invented by Philippe, which proved a groundbreaking development, and a phenomenal launchpad, for both their business and watchmaking itself.
Wind Forward to Modern Times
Both took off at light speed and by 1851 none other than Queen Victoria - one of the foremost British monarchs in history - had acquired a majestic keyless pendant Patek Philippe watch, embellished with rose-cut diamonds. By 1868, Patek Philippe created the first Swiss wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary and their reputation for sumptuous timepieces began to grow as the 20th century unravelled. Aside from the incredible materials used for their wristwatches, what is highly notable, and increasingly rare, is the business itself. Patek Philippe has remained rigorously independent throughout its history and, since 1932, it has been owned by the Stern family - significantly contributing to the preservation of its traditional craftsmanship and heritage (and of course majorly boosting the reputation and value of the watches themselves).
The Best of the Best
Nowadays, just as always, Patek Philippe watches are deeply desirable - and often maintain or even increase in value over time. Some vintage models, especially those that are rare or boast highly complex engineering, have sold at auctions for record-breaking prices. When choosing a Patek Philippe watch, there are many questions to ask and a range of elements to consider - from aesthetics, functionality, size, cost, potential resale value. Here is an in-depth guide to some of our favourite Patek Phillippe models, outlining their craftsmanship and heritage.
Aquanaut 5168G-010
Patek Philippe’s more traditional offerings have never suffered a dip in popularity, but the master watcher maker has naturally diversified its portfolio over the years: none more so than in 1997, when it introduced the ‘Aquanaut’ collection. Designed to draw in a slighter younger, more sports-driven clientele, the blend of ultra-bold designs and modern materials have made it a huge success among fans and collectors. Released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the range, the 5168G-010 already has enviable heritage and collectability. Its distinctive ‘warm’ green dial and matching khaki rubber strap - complete with 18k white gold folding clasp - make this a deeply desirable, and superbly attractive, watch. The ‘010’ is the jumbo version of the Aquanaut, with a case diameter that measures 42.2mm - so it’s quite the statement. Prices on the secondary market suggest that one would have to pay upwards of £42,000 retail for an Aquanaut 5168G-010.
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001
This aviation-inspired watch is considered to be one of the most desirable Patek Philippe timepieces on the market. The ‘Pilot Travel Time’ series was introduced to the brand’s lineup in 2015, but the stunning look of the watch itself is something of an aesthetic throwback: the Calatrava 5524R-001 draws clever inspiration from vintage aviator watches of the 1930s and 1940s, utilising the large numerals, bold hands and dual time zone functionality that wartime pilots would have relied on for navigation. Despite these visual leanings, the watch has razor-sharp modern twists: a liberal use of rose gold, superb finishing, and precision engineering (its Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax free-sprung balance wheel means it offers a tolerance of no more than +2 seconds per day). The matte brown calfskin strap, with a three-piece fastening system, is very dashing. A Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 would cost almost £50,000 at retail prices.
Calatrava 5916J-001
Patek Philippe are kings of the dress watch: nobody does it better. The Calatrava, then, might be the crown jewel: it is considered by many in the horology game to be the best dress watch of all time, with the 5916J-001 often lauded as the perfect reevaluation of a stonewall classic. Oozing timeless design and elegant simplicity, the 5196J-001 has a striking yellow gold case - a classy nod to the original Calatrava models of the 1930s - while the colour of the dial is highly complementary, a silvery soft opaline. Dauphine-style hands (in yellow gold) enhance its refined look, while the absence of numerals boosts the minimalist air - only a small seconds subdial, located at the 6 o’clock position, offers any degree of complexity. Size wise, the case measures 37 mm in diameter, and its slim profile is perfectly designed for tucking under a cuff (and for unveiling too, when the time is right). Engineering is of a very high specification; time won’t slip. On the secondary timepiece market, a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001 is likely to be available for upwards of £11,000.
Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001
The technical complexity of watches should never be forgotten - and the detail and finishing on this Patek Philippe beauty gives us a timely reminder. Through the sumptuous sapphire crystal case back of the Nautilus 5712R-001, the movement is visible - and what an utter joy, showcasing the genius of a self-winding mechanism, the exceptional attention to detail of the watchmaker, and wonder of time itself. Among the iconic Nautilus line, this model stands out for its decadence: the asymmetrical dial layout is paired with a luxurious rose gold case and a refined brown gradient dial, and it’s versatile too: it can be worn as a big-statement sports watch or a dress watch. Technical-spec is impressive: the self-winding mechanical movement also comes with a power reserve indicator, for example. Connoisseurs really love this watch - and so too do collectors, as its value only seems to rise.
Grand Complications 5236P
This is not your everyday timepiece. Sometimes the devil is in the details and, in this instance, let’s hone in on one of the materials - the 5236P-001 features a case made of platinum 950: the rarest, most prestigious metal available in watchmaking. Looking at the technical specifications of the watch, the level of mastery involved becomes evident. For starters, the Grand Complications series is the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s craftsmanship; and, in tandem with its aforementioned use of platinum and a subtle diamond set at 6 o’clock between the lugs, the 5236P boasts a groundbreaking perpetual calendar design. This inline perpetual calendar display is a technical wonder: the day, date, and month are arranged in a single line, unlike traditional set ups that use separate subdials or windows. Considering the engineering, the case is admirably thin (just 11.07 mm), so it’s suitable for everyday and formal occasions, whether for business or pleasure. A Grand Complications 5236P retails at more than £120,000.
With a varied catalogue of luxury timepieces, Patek Philippe offers something for everyone, with styles and design to suit different tastes. Collectors, auctioneers, retailers, watch lovers and investors: across the board, there aren’t many people who can resist their deep allure.
