Queen Victoria, Albert Einstein, Pablo Picasso, Brad Pitt, and Leonardo DiCaprio. This intriguing list of iconic names have one thing in common: they have all owned a Patek Phillippe watch – one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world.
The allure of this luxury Swiss jeweller has deep foundations: Founded in Geneva in 1839 by Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe, who forged a company at the forefront of innovation in their field, Patek Phillipe’s success lay in a revolutionary winding mechanism invented by Philippe himself. This proved to be a groundbreaking development and a phenomenal launchpad, for both their business and watchmaking abilities. Read on to unearth a history of the best Patek Philippe watches.
Wind Forward to Modern Times
In 1851, just 12 years after the company’s founding, none other than Queen Victoria - one of the foremost British monarchs in history - had acquired a majestic keyless pendant Patek Philippe watch, embellished with rose-cut diamonds.
By 1868, the company had created the first Swiss wristwatch for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, and their reputation for sumptuous timepieces began to grow as the nineteenth century gave way to the twentieth.
Aside from the incredible materials used for their wristwatches, what is highly notable – and increasingly rare – is the independence of the business itself. Patek Philippe has, since 1932, been owned by the Stern family – significantly contributing to the preservation of its traditional craftsmanship and heritage (and of course boosting the reputation and value of the watches themselves).
The Best of the Best
Patek Philippe watches remain highly desirable and often maintain, or even increase, in value over time. Some vintage models, especially those that are rare or boast highly complex engineering, have sold at auctions for record-breaking prices.
When choosing a Patek Philippe watch, there are many questions to ask and a range of elements to consider - from aesthetics, functionality, size, cost, and potential resale value. Here is an in-depth guide to some of our favourite Patek Philippe models, outlining their craftsmanship and heritage.
Aquanaut 5168G-010
Patek Philippe’s more traditional offerings have never suffered a dip in popularity, but the master watchmaker has naturally diversified its portfolio over the years: none more so than in 1997, when it introduced the ‘Aquanaut’ collection.
Designed to draw in a slighter younger, more sports-driven clientele, the blend of ultra-bold designs and modern materials have made this model a huge success among fans and collectors. Released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the range, the 5168G-010 already has enviable heritage and collectability. Its distinctive ‘warm’ green dial and matching khaki rubber strap - complete with 18k white gold folding clasp - make this watch deeply desirable and incredibly attractive. The ‘010’ is the jumbo version of the Aquanaut, with a case diameter that measures 42.2mm - so it’s quite the statement. One of the best Patek Philippe watches, prices on the secondary market stand at around £42,000.
Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001
This aviation-inspired watch is considered to be one of the most desirable Patek Philippe timepieces on the market. The ‘Pilot Travel Time’ series was introduced to the brand’s lineup in 2015, but the stunning look of the watch itself is something of an aesthetic throwback: the Calatrava 5524R-001 draws clever inspiration from vintage aviator watches of the 1930s and 1940s, utilising the large numerals, bold hands and dual time zone functionality that wartime pilots relied on for navigation.
Despite these visual leanings, the watch has razor-sharp modern twists: a liberal use of rose gold, superb finishing, and precision engineering (its Spiromax balance spring and Gyromax free-sprung balance wheel means it offers a tolerance of no more than +2 seconds per day). The matte brown calfskin strap, with a three-piece fastening system, complements the watch impeccably. A Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524R-001 would cost almost £50,000 at retail prices.
Calatrava 5916J-001
Nobody does the dress watch better than Patek Philippe. As such, the Calatrava might be the crown jewel: it is considered by many in the horology game to be the best dress watch of all time, often lauded as the perfect reimagining of a stonewall classic.
Oozing timeless design and elegant simplicity, the 5196J-001 has a striking yellow gold case - a classy nod to the original Calatrava models of the 1930s - while the colour of the dial is highly complementary, a silvery soft opaline. Dauphine-style hands (in yellow gold) enhance its refined look, while the absence of numbers boosts the minimalist air - only a small seconds subdial, located at the 6 o’clock position, offers any degree of complexity.
Size-wise, the case measures 37 mm in diameter, and its slim profile is perfectly designed for tucking under a cuff (and for unveiling when the time is right). Engineering is of a very high specification; time won’t slip. On the secondary timepiece market, a Patek Philippe Calatrava 5916J-001 is likely to be available for upwards of £11,000.
Nautilus Self-Winding Rose Gold 5712R-001
The technical complexity of watches should never be overlooked – and the detail and finishing on this Patek Philippe beauty gives us a timely reminder.
Through the sumptuous sapphire crystal-cased back of the Nautilus 5712R-001, the movement is visible - showcasing the genius of a self-winding mechanism, the exceptional attention to detail of the watchmaker, and wonder of time itself. Among the iconic Nautilus line, this model stands out for its decadence: the asymmetrical dial layout is paired with a luxurious rose gold case and a refined brown gradient dial.
Versatility of this timepiece is also a key highlight: it can be worn as a big-statement sports watch or a dress watch. Technical-spec is impressive: the self-winding mechanical movement also comes with a power reserve indicator, for example. Connoisseurs really love this watch - and so too do collectors, as its value only seems to rise.
Grand Complications 5236P
This is not your everyday timepiece. Sometimes the devil is in the details and, in this instance, that proves to be correct. The 5236P-001 features a case made of platinum 950: the rarest, most prestigious metal available in watchmaking.
Looking at the technical specifications of the watch, the level of mastery involved becomes evident. For starters, the Grand Complications series is the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s craftsmanship; and, in tandem with its aforementioned use of platinum and a subtle diamond set at 6 o’clock, the 5236P boasts a groundbreaking perpetual calendar design. This inline perpetual calendar display is a technical wonder: the day, date, and month are arranged in a single line, unlike traditional set ups that use separate subdials or windows.
Considering the engineering, the case is admirably thin (just 11.07 mm), so it’s suitable for everyday and formal occasions. A Grand Complications 5236P retails at more than £120,000 – easily one of the best Patek Philippe watches.
With a varied catalogue of luxury timepieces, Patek Philippe offers something for everyone and has styles and designs to suit different tastes. From collectors and auctioneers to investors and watch lovers, there aren’t many people who can resist the deep allure of this iconic brand.
