The name Soho speaks to its incredible past as a hunting ground during the 16th & 17th centuries. Many expeditions for deer and game were sent here by Henry VIII as part of his royal parkland, and the cry ‘So Ho!’ was used by the hunters to rally them together in the heat of their activities.
Thankfully, in the modern age, those hunting their lunch will have an altogether easier time due to the amount of fantastic options for bars and restaurants in one of London’s most famous bohemian districts. This neighbourhood will be forever linked with the explosion of creativity and energy of the 1960s but for the 2020s there is a new generation of Soho locations, amongst some old favourites, that are just waiting for you to try.
Here is a brief guide to some of the very best.
L’Escargot
As the esteemed critic Jay Rayner so elegantly puts it, “This isn’t just a French restaurant, it’s a Soho institution”. Located on Greek Street in an historic Georgia Townhouse, it also holds the claim to be the oldest French restaurant in all of London. Founded in 1896, it takes its name from the French delicacy that was a mind-blowing novelty for the people of the capital at the time. The a la carte lunch menu here ensures this heritage continues with the Esgargots de Bourgogne starter, a signature dish of burgundy snails prepared simply with parsley, garlic and butter. With a refined and extensive wine list, and options for private dining rooms, it is easy to see how this place has been the favourite of Coco Chanel, Mick Jagger and Dame Judi Dench over the years.
Gauthier
This Michelin-starred restaurant has a clear vision driven by head chef Alex Gauthier to redefine luxury dining by helping form a new future of plant-based food. An ethical philosophy is echoed through the sustainable materials used in the sleek and subtle interior design to keep the place simple, welcoming and unfussy. The entirely meat-free menus offer a collection of innovative and attractive dishes such as Heirloom Tomato Tartare and the exquisite Celeriac Wellington for a plant-based take on the classics. A curated selection of vegan wines also complement the food in both flavours and philosophy, through biodynamic and organic bottles from France, Italy and the New World. Gauthier has attracted global recognition for its pioneering status and commitment to ushering in a new way of dining, without ever compromising the quality and service that its diners expect from places in this area.
Yauatcha
Yauatcha has garnered a great reputation as a modern Cantonese establishment with dim sum, patisserie and tea choices that make it an inspired lunch destination. An open plan kitchen on the lower floor provides a lively and energetic atmosphere within an aesthetic that takes its cues from traditional Chinese teahouses. Here you can enjoy dim sum delights such as Venison Puff or the excellent Prawn and Beancurd Cheung Fun. The ground floor is where the patisserie counter and tea options make for a lighter experience, with an extensive macaron selection and signature brews such as the Iron Buddha Oolong Tea. The entire experience of this place earned it a Michelin star after only 12 months of operation and led to repeated success all over the world. This place remains the flagship however, and it is always pleasing to go directly to the source where everything for this brand began.
Quo Vadis
Established in 1926, this landmark of British cuisine has watched almost a century of cultural development and evolution happen all around it. It would be difficult to find a venue in Soho with more stories associated with its four walls too. The building itself was home to Karl Marx during his time in London, and the poet Dylan Thomas once enjoyed the hospitality here to such an extent that he left an unfinished manuscript of his play Under Milk Wood on one of the tables. Celebrated chef Jeremy Lee leads the creative direction for the food in the present day and brings his love of bold, punchy flavours to bear on a lunch menu that delivers dishes such as the Smoked Eel Sandwich served on sourdough with horseradish cream. This is very much the recommended choice for first-time visitors as a rite of passage in this superb Soho eatery.
SOLA
SOLA brings a dash of Californian sunshine to Soho through the excellent work of head chef Victor Garvey. His career has seen him work in some of the greatest restaurants all over the world including Noma in Copenhagen and Picasso in Las Vegas, and now SOLA feels like home for him. The lunch menu has all the breezy, airy inspiration of the Pacific West Coast that you would expect through exceptional fish courses of langoustines, scallop starts and sablefish mains. It is clear that SOLA is making a splash on the culinary scene through the amount of accolades it is racking up in such a short space of time. In less than five years, it has gained a Michelin star, 3 AA Rosettes and a ranking in the UK’s top 50 restaurants. Most importantly, it has found its way into the hearts of everybody that takes a table here too.
Bob Bob Ricard
The Anglo-Russian-inspired restaurant was founded by Leonid Shutov and Richard Howarth in 2008 to offer a unique dining experience in the Soho district. The interior was designed to reflect the much vaunted Golden Age of Travel, through art deco elements, luxurious booths and a colour scheme said to be inspired by the Orient Express. This place holds the honour of having the most champagne poured in any UK venue, due to its now iconic Press for Champagne button installed in the booths. It is, of course, the food that remains the real draw here with wild boar Toulouse Sausages, Gilt-head Bream and Corn-fed Poussin showcasing some capable cooking. It is the attention to small details that has provided Bob Bob Ricard with an enduring appeal now well into its second decade.
Taking a break for lunch in Soho is a wonderful way to spend the early afternoon. And after your meal, there should always be time to explore the area and uncover the fascinating history of this timeless London area. These places are all excellent choices to begin that journey and enjoy some great food too.
