There seems to have been a unique excitement attached to Japanese cuisine for years in the UK and quite rightly so. That’s probably because for all those years, or maybe even decades, we could only observe customers dining in modern sushi bars or maybe in the more traditional way, sitting cross-legged at a large communal table, when they appeared on our TV or movie screens. Either way, we remained a nation of intrigued foodies until relatively recently. Then we finally got the opportunity to taste the delicacies of Japanese food culture first-hand on our own shores.
Whether it’s the modern cuisine, that taste of Tokyo, or the more historic food culture of more rural Japan – washoku – Japanese cuisine is well and truly represented in some of the most wonderful restaurants in the capital.
Japanese dishes themselves are rightly perceived as being predominantly healthy. Historically influenced by Chinese cuisine, Japanese food is traditionally rice-based but dishes have obviously evolved way beyond rice. And it has much more to offer than noodles and raw fish for that matter. So much about dining in a Japanese eatery is also to do with the way you eat, the presentation, the table setting, the attention to detail. And London has so many restaurants that vary in their approach to Japanese culture and cuisine; here is just a small portion of the very best that the capital has to offer.
Umu, Mayfair
Umu is most definitely at the top end of Japanese cuisine in London, not least in terms of price. Nevertheless, the opportunity to experience Kyoto-style ‘kaiseki’ – a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner – at its very best, is well worth it, if you can afford it. At Umu, the subtlety of Kyoto cuisine is combined with top quality ingredients from around the British Isles. However, you won’t be sitting on the floor, Tatami-style but you’ll still be having the unique, authentic Japanese experience with the finest food being served. A Michelin star doesn’t lie.
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Endo at the Rotunda, White City
Located at the top of Wood Lane’s old BBC Television Centre, ‘sushi in the clouds’ is how Yokohama-born, third generation ‘Sushi Master’, Endo Kazutoshi describes his restaurant on the top floor, where guests gather round a counter to enjoy his beautifully crafted creations. But it's the level of attention to detail with the sushi that’s as dizzying as the location. This is the perfect mix of traditional – the food – and modern – the surroundings. Again, it’s not cheap but you’ll never forget such a luxurious, elegant experience of Japanese cuisine. The restaurant itself is becoming just as iconic as the building it’s located in.
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Koya Ko, Hackney
At the other extreme from the top-class restaurants, this is very much a casual, counter service-only noodle located on Broadway Market. It has larger sister eateries in Central London and Soho, but you won’t find noodles more delicious than these, handmade every day. It’s been compared closely to the noodle bars found at train stations throughout Japan, not least because it serves the kind of comforting bowls of Udon noodles offered there. But don’t worry if you’re not a noodle fan; Koya Ko serves up the most delicious rice bowl dishes as well as quirky, imaginative specials.
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Moto, Covent Garden
Moto is primarily a sake bar and bottle shop, reflecting the symbiotic relationship between food and alcohol in Japanese culture. But once you’ve had a cocktail, it’s recommended you stay to sample the otsumami menu of what amounts to Japanese style tapas. The menu is designed to enhance their sake offering, with a series of down-to-earth, home-cooking style comfort dishes. And the brilliant staff in this intimate and welcoming Covent Garden oasis will give expertly considered suggestions for what will best complement the sake of your choice.
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Akira, Kensington
Based in Kensington High Street’s Japan House, Akira is more than just an introduction to Japanese cuisine within a cultural centre showcasing the best of Japanese art and craftsmanship. As you’d probably expect, sushi, sashimi and robata grill dishes are on offer along with a wafu or Japanese style afternoon tea. And the experience doesn’t finish there – for those wanting to have a go at recreating their meal at home, the cultural centre has an ‘Essentials of the Japanese Kitchen’ YouTube series, where chef Akira demonstrates different techniques and recipes.
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Sushi Atelier, Westminster
A different kind of sushi restaurant, this one has been described as young, vivacious, and fresh. Right in the centre of London, Sushi Atelier is the cooler, more chilled-out cousin to the more grown-up Chisou, in Knightsbridge and Mayfair but run by the same crew. It’s obviously not as pricey – it’s undoubtedly got some of the best value ‘omakase’ in Central London. Add this to the more vibrant décor and a welcome sense of fun, both with the decor and the creatively imaginative menu, and Sushi Atelier is definitely one on its own.
In terms of what London has to offer the fine diner and the casual customer alike, Japanese cuisine is now way up there with the best of all global foods with a range of prices to suit all pockets. It’s hardly a surprise that a cosmopolitan city like London has fully embraced Japanese cuisine in the last few years, given its size, its diverse populace and of course, the millions of visitors it welcomes from all over the world every year. But it has not lost any of its fresh appeal with so many Japanese eateries determined to stay creative and innovative, providing exciting surprises for foodies who think they know their noodles.
