Fish and chips are an iconic staple of British cuisine. Although lampooned to no uncertain degree by some countries over the centuries, the tradition of battered and deep-fried fish until golden brown served with a generous portion of cooked chips (and in some circles, accompanied by mushy peas and tartare sauce) remains a beloved British dish by both natives and visitors from abroad.
Across the capital, a small number of highly regarded restaurants have taken the classic concept and refined it without stripping away its character. These are places where the quality of the fish matters as much as the batter, where potatoes are treated with respect, and where the dish feels entirely at home in the company of thoughtful wine lists and side dishes that truly take the concept of this relatively simple meal somewhere entirely new.
The Mayfair Chippy
One of the most storied and old-money neighbourhoods in the city boasts an appropriately elevated fish and chips experience. The Mayfair Chippy has carved out a niche since opening in the mid-2010s, earning recognition from the Michelin Guide for how seriously it takes this classic British staple. The dining room itself sets the tone from the start. Chequerboard floors, banquette seating, brass detailing and subtle maritime references that feel in keeping with the area's reputation and unmistakably fine dining orientated.
The fish and chips are served with a generous fillet of cod or haddock encased in a crisp, evenly blistered batter, which, upon breaking open, reveals pearlescent flesh. Chips are thick-cut and fluffy inside, with just enough crunch to hold their structure, and not doused to death in oil. Traditional accompaniments are not forgotten, with vibrant-looking mushy peas, sharp and tangy tartare sauce, and even an exceptional quality curry sauce served in small copper pots for those who shirk tradition in favour of another flavour. Seasonal variations appear throughout the year, depending on access to the usual choices, but the classic version remains the reason most people return.
The Seashell of Lisson Grove
Just a short walk from Marylebone station, The Seashell of Lisson Grove has been open for more than 60 years and offers an elevated dining experience compared to the traditional fish and chip shop. Family-owned and operated, even the likes of iconic Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse have crowned it the best fish and chips in London. Those with more macabre humour might enjoy the fact that there is a large fish tank located within the restaurant, which is filled with dark wood panelling and furnishings, whilst the option to order from the takeaway counter remains an ever-present temptation for locals.
The fish and chips are unapologetically generous with regard to portion size, with large fillets of cod fried in a golden, crisp batter that remains light rather than greasy. The option is there to have fish in panko breadcrumbs or matzo coated and fried, whilst no beer is used in the batter, making it Halal-friendly. Gluten-free options exist as well, especially useful as the menu extends to include scampi, grilled fish and lighter options. The charm of this family-run establishment is endless, as this beloved Marylebone staple has continued to evolve with the times, highlighted by the tweaks to the menu that give it a more cosmopolitan feel to fish and chips in London.
Golden Union
In the middle of Soho’s constant motion and neon signage, Golden Union offers a popular alternative for either food on the go or a sit-down meal in one of London’s most eclectic areas. Family-run and proudly independent, it has become a favourite for those who desire fish and chips before or after a show, with a menu that’s undoubtedly contemporary, but the meal itself feels as well wrapped in tradition as the fish served in a newspaper.
Golden Union has an unapologetically retro aesthetic, from the multi-coloured tile floors to the jukebox lurking in the corner. But its approach to the classic dish of fish and chips introduces subtle modern touches. Haddock, cod and plaice are all customisable with either traditional batter or panko breadcrumbs for extra bite. The restaurant prides itself on its East Anglian-sourced potato fries, and combined with some delicious homemade sauces (a twist on everything from tartare to curry sauce) and a filling homemade pie selection, Golden Union offers a lot of bite for a relatively small shop in Soho.
Rock & Sole Plaice
Situated near Covent Garden, Rock & Sole Plaice claims to be the oldest fish and chips restaurant in London, and stepping inside feels like entering a sort of archive or highlight reel of the last two centuries in the city. Spread out over two floors and offering al fresco dining during the summer months on its inviting terrace, the old wooden floors, vintage photographs and closely set tables are a timely throwback to a more casual approach to dining.
As the name will no doubt imply, both rock and plaice feature on the menu here as intriguing alternatives to your traditional fish and chips, but there’s still the choice of cod, haddock, skate and lemon sole, all of which can be battered and fried to crispy perfection. Additionally, traditional pies, scampi and fried calamari and even battered sausage are on the menu, keeping more staples from traditional fish and chip shops alive in this cosmopolitan part of London.
Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill
Bentley’s in Mayfair is a legendary London dining spot known for its timeless elegance and high-quality seafood. First opened in 1916, it offers a complete menu of both fish and seafood, with dishes from Dover sole to lobster spaghetti served in its formal dining Grill Room. As the name implies, that is but one option for dining at Bentley’s, with the atmosphere far more lively at the marble-decked oyster bar downstairs, whilst the option for al fresco dining is there on the charming heated terrace.
Under patron-chef Richard Corrigan's guidance, the food is a standout amongst London’s diverse but highly celebrated fish-food scene, and the fish and chips are no exception. Using sustainably sourced, high-quality fish from British and Irish waters, the dish elevates the humble chippy experience through the improvements to flavour from the carefully selected fish and the diligent, technical approach to cooking it traditionally. Neither too greasy nor too salty, dry, or moist, the attention to detail ensures a perfectly cooked meal served in elegant surroundings, representing the ultimate in upscale, “posh” fish and chips that diners can find anywhere in the city.
