An iconic square mile overflowing with creative energy bang in the middle of central London: Soho is prime coffee shop territory. And while the mass homogenisation of coffee shops is something of a 21st century phenomenon, they are, in fact, a deeply embedded part of Soho’s cultural fabric. Soho has long been famous - especially as an epicentre of post-war bohemia and 20th-century subculture - and, alongside its diverse and dynamic cultural scene, its smoky Italian espresso bars of the 1950s became well-established social meccas, drawing in local creatives and enthralled tourists. The spirit of those bars largely remains, and today’s ‘third-wave cafés’ - whether they be global brands or independents - trade on Soho’s long-established reputation as a go-to location for an atmospheric caffeine experience. Here’s our guide to its best locations.
BAR ITALIA (Frith Street)
Bar Italia encapsulates the buccaneering spirit of Soho like no other. Opened in 1949 by the Polledri family - who still run it today - this espresso bar is much more than a coffee shop; it’s a long-established and widely-revered cultural institution. Opposite Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club on Frith Street, it has always been a magnet for musicians, artists and writers - and especially those who like to socialise into the early hours, thanks to its late license. Its loyal followers cherish its authentic charm - there are polished chrome counters, hordes of vintage football memorabilia plastering the walls, and a small TV (often showing Italian news). But it all amounts to a first-class experience: conversation is free flowing, the atmosphere is rich, and the coffee is perfect - strong and characterful.
FLAT WHITE (Berwick Street)
Another atmospheric Soho pioneer - Flat White was opened in 2005 by a team of Antipodean coffee enthusiasts, and practically introduced the concept to Londoners at a time when most people drank either an americano, espresso, or an oversized latte. Twenty years on, coffee culture in the capital is radically different - diverse, competitive, always evolving. As you’d expect from its statement name, the flat white at Flat White is consistently outstanding: a bold, tasty espresso perfectly blended with creamy milk. Their cortado is just as popular among regulars, and all coffee beans at Flat White are ethically sourced and expertly roasted. Located on a busy stretch of Berwick Street, space is at a premium, but this compact café benefits from a cosy, buzzy atmosphere. With wooden interiors and narrow seating, it’s a charming space that typifies urban London at its best - full of curious, stimulated, satisfied clientele enjoying life in the city.
DEPARTMENT OF COFFEE AND SOCIAL AFFAIRS
Ethically driven coffee experts - that’s the Department of Coffee and Social Affairs. First established in 2010 on London's Leather Lane Market, it has garnered quite a reputation for its quality and values, sourcing premium single-estate coffees from regions like Rwanda, Kenya, and Colombia - and serving them with skill and passion in the heart of London. Their Soho location - nestled in Lowndes Court off Carnaby Street - offers a refined café setting, with an enjoyable two-level layout (espresso bar upstairs; more comprehensive brew bar downstairs). It’s spacious and contemporary, with exposed brick walls, industrial lighting, comfortable seating, and an understated ambience. The Department of Coffee and Social Affairs also offers an impressive range of specialist teas and a lively food menu sourced from some of London's best bakers.
ALGERIAN COFFEE STORES (Old Compton Street)
This is a legendary coffee shrine for those in the know. Almost hidden away on a hectic stretch of Old Compton Street, Algerian Coffee Stores is a little family-run gem, utterly brimming with character and narrative. Having been founded in 1887, it is impressive enough that it has stood the test of time. When you enter the narrow, wood-panelled, shop space - lined floor-to-ceiling with jars, tins, grinders, coffee machines, and the distinct aroma of freshly ground coffee beans hits you - you are left in no doubt that this is somewhere special. Purchasing a coffee here to drink on the spot is a must: at the front counter, there is a tiny espresso bar, and often there are queues, especially for its gratifying macchiato. Buying coffee to take home is also quite an experience: Algerian Coffee Stores stocks over 80 varieties, all sold by weight in brown paper bags. For soul, heritage, story and sheer quality, this is a place of pilgrimage for coffee aficionados.
BAFARAT (Warwick Street)
Bafarat feels different. Less the modern iteration of a coffee shop, more of a sophisticated pâtisserie - and it’s all the more appealing for this confident, distinct identity. Originally established in Saudi Arabia’s Jeddah in the 1950s, this is the brand’s flagship European location, and evidently a lot of wisdom has gone into its aesthetics and atmosphere. The interior is calm and considered, with clean marble surfaces and soft lighting. It boasts a refined, international sensibility rather than leaning on its London location too heavily - and the drinks offering reflects this. Along with expert espresso, there are excellent rose-infused or pistachio latte options, nodding to Barafat’s Middle Eastern heritage. The clientele here tend not to be in a rush, or preoccupied with a laptop screen. Barafat is a luxury coffee escape: somewhere to watch the world go by and chat with friends.
SACRED GROUNDS (Dean Street)
Trends and the zeitgeist are irrelevant to what Sacred Grounds offers. This is a community initiative, run by St Anne’s Church off Dean Street, and is particularly enticing as the only spot in Soho for a coffee with a private garden - an appealing trait, given the intensity of Soho street life at times. Amid admirable social purpose, there is well-executed coffee inside a building that is expansive and welcoming: the high ceilings, natural light, and relaxed layout make it feel like a real sanctuary. Beyond the coffee, there is an ever-evolving contemporary menu with a host of pastries and savoury treats.
Just like the culture on offer in Soho - which, after all, is one of the most celebrated creative hotbeds in all of Europe - its range of coffee shops offer a bit of everything. All of them are vibrant and inviting, it just depends on how you choose to get your caffeine fix.
