For the best part of the past century, Margate was a faded seaside town on the coast of Kent, a relic of the days before cheap flights meant people in Britain could travel to continental Europe for their holidays. But over the past ten years, it has transformed and people from London are flocking to the seaside town in search of beautiful Georgian houses and its burgeoning art and restaurant scene. The arrival of the Turner Contemporary Gallery in 2011 brought with it a wave of creative energy, transforming the town into one of the UK’s coolest coastal retreats. While summer often sees families crowding the sandy beaches, autumn is the perfect time to explore Margate at a slower, more contemplative pace. Windswept walks on the beach, some of the UK’s best vintage shops, and excellent restaurants make it the perfect autumnal escape, especially for those who live in London and can reach the town in an hour and a half by train.
Friday Evening: A Taste of Local Fare
Arriving in Margate on a Friday evening, the first thing you’ll want is a comforting, hearty meal to unwind and shake away the stress of a busy week. Buoy and Oyster is the perfect spot; a popular restaurant situated on the seafront with panoramic views of the North Sea that makes the most of its proximity to the ocean and has an excellent range of fresh and local catches. The oysters are a must and for those seeking something heartier the bouillabaisse or seafood risotto pairs beautifully with an English sparkling wine from nearby vineyards. To end your evening, meander down to The Sun Deck, a bar on the Harbour Arm that offers local Kentish ales but also warming seasonal cocktails.
Saturday Morning: Art and Antiques
Saturday can start with breakfast at Mala Kaffe, a Scandinavian-inspired café along the seafront. With views of the golden sands, this is the place to enjoy a coffee and cinnamon bun while you watch the early risers jog along the promenade. The minimalist, cosy interior perfectly complements the calming seaside surroundings. For something more traditional The Dalby Cafe does a wonderful English breakfast with all the trimmings.
One of Margate's cultural highlights is the Turner Contemporary Gallery, designed by architect David Chipperfield. The light-filled venue was inspired by the town's most famous former resident, J.M.W. Turner, who captured Margate's dramatic skies in many of his works. The gallery’s autumn exhibitions often focus on cutting-edge modern art, juxtaposing Turner’s seascapes with contemporary installations.
A few minutes’ walk from Turner Contemporary is the Old Town, an area brimming with character. Once a hub for seaside traders, it has transformed into a treasure trove of independent shops, galleries, and vintage boutiques. Pop into Paraphernalia for retro furniture and unique trinkets, or explore Madam Popoff Vintage for an eclectic selection of vintage clothes. Antiques enthusiasts will find themselves in heaven browsing through these tightly packed stores, which often carry everything from 19th-century porcelain to mid-century modern treasures.
Saturday Afternoon: History and the Unexpected
Lunch time could well mean it's time to tuck into a classic fish and chips at Peter's Fish Factory, a no-frills spot just off the main beach. Take it to-go and enjoy a seaside picnic on the steps overlooking the water – autumn may bring cooler temperatures, but the sea air and views that inspired Turner are worth wrapping up warm for, so sit outside and enjoy.
In the afternoon, dive into Margate's more unexpected historical side. The Shell Grotto is one of the town's most mysterious attractions. This subterranean passageway, covered in millions of shells, was discovered in 1835, and no one knows exactly who built it or why. Walking through the winding corridors is a surreal experience – the shell mosaics depicting intricate patterns and symbols are hauntingly beautiful, especially in the soft autumn light.
If you're a fan of local history, head to the Margate Museum, located in the Old Town Hall. The museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the town’s storied past, from its Victorian heyday as a holiday destination to its recent renaissance. The building itself, with its creaky floors and old-time charm, adds to the experience.
Saturday Evening: Dining and the Dreamland Experience
As evening falls, it's time for another memorable meal. Margate’s food scene has been steadily improving, and nowhere exemplifies this better than Sargasso, a bistro perched on the Harbour Arm. Run by the team behind London’s much-loved Brawn, Sargasso offers a seasonal menu with a Mediterranean twist. Dishes such as mussels with nduja or burrata with roast squash reflect the autumnal bounty of Kent’s farms and shores and demonstrate the contemporary update on tradition, which Margate is now so known for.
After dinner, it's worth checking out Dreamland, Margate’s iconic amusement park. While the rides may be quieter in autumn, Dreamland often hosts a variety of events during the off-season, from vintage fairs to live music and film screenings. If you're lucky, you might catch an indoor concert in the retro roller disco or the cinema, which shows an eclectic mix of cult classics and independent films.
Sunday Morning: Coastal Walks and Hidden Gems
Sunday morning in Margate is all about embracing the natural beauty of the Kent coastline. Wrap up warm and head to the Thanet Coastal Path, which stretches along the cliffs to nearby Broadstairs. The bracing sea air and the sound of waves crashing against the chalk cliffs are invigorating, and the views are stunning – on a clear day, you can see all the way to France.
On your way back, stop for coffee at Cliffs, a café-cum-record shop just a short walk from the seafront. The relaxed vibe here, combined with a playlist of vinyl tunes, makes it the perfect spot to recharge after your walk. Browse through their collection of records, or simply enjoy a lovely latte while gazing out at the sea.
Sunday Afternoon: A Farewell to Margate
Before you head back home, one more of Margate’s hidden gems awaits: The Margate Caves. Reopened in 2019 after decades of closure, these caves were originally dug by hand in the 18th century. The subterranean tunnels and chambers, adorned with colourful murals and carvings, tell a fascinating story of Margate’s history. It's an off-the-beaten-path adventure that will leave a lasting impression.
If time permits, squeeze in a final meal at Hantverk & Found, an intimate seafood restaurant that doubles as an art gallery. The menu changes daily, but expect dishes like fresh crab with aioli or grilled mackerel – a fitting end to your seaside adventures.
As your autumn weekend in Margate draws to a close, take one last look at the sea. The town's beauty in the cooler months lies in its contrasts: the raw, windswept coastline against the warmth of its cultural offerings; the old-world charm of its streets alongside the freshness of its creative energy. Margate in autumn is a reminder that the seaside isn't just for summer – sometimes, the colder seasons reveal the most magic.
