Two and a half centuries after they first originated – and deeper we go into the digital age of head-spinning instant global communication – yet automatic watches still have the power to cause a little flicker of wonder: that moment when you stop and think ‘Wow, this is so clever’. Also known as self-winding watches, these classic timepieces are powered by the wearer's wrist: no need for a battery. Sounds astonishingly simple, doesn’t it?
Let’s rewind a little.
Back in the 1770s, Abraham-Louis Perrelet invented the first known self-winding watch in Switzerland, a revolutionary design that utilised a mechanism powered by the motion of the wearer, and with another 18th-century upgrade on that design – a self-winding pocket watch known as the "Perpetuelle" – the ‘technology’ was established and developed until some significant 20th-century innovations, which led to the rise and rise of wristwatches.
British watchmaker John Harwood patented the first practical self-winding wristwatch in 1923, using a pivoting weight that shifted with the wearer's arm to wind the mainspring, before Rolex – yes, that Rolex – raised the game in the 1930s, introducing the Oyster Perpetual in 1931.
This "Perpetual" rotor system design allowed the rotor to move 360 degrees, thus massively increasing the efficiency of winding – and paving the way for modern automatic movements. Further significant technological advancements came about as the byproduct of improved materials and slicker manufacturing: the likes of Omega and Seiko sold millions of automatic wristwatches thanks to new models with enhanced accuracy (and aesthetic appeal too). Watchmaking craftsmanship has continued to evolve at pace and, though the modern smartwatch has its place today, the best automatic watches unequivocally boast style and charm in spades – not least the sumptuous sweeping motion of a self-winding timepiece. Nowadays, men everywhere have a phenomenal amount of choice when it comes to what to wear on their wrist and how to keep time. Here is our pick of the best on the market today.
CITIZEN TSUYOSA
Modern meets vintage; smart meets casual; wear with anything – that’s the Citizen Tsuyosa. Meaning “strength” in Japanese, tsuyosa is apt – it has many qualities, not least that it’s highly versatile and durable, and totally eye-catching. Some dial colour options are bolder than most manufacturers dare, and that design bravery pays off: both the green and yellow look quirky and classy (albeit there are also classic options like black and blue, should you want a safer bet), while some models of the stainless-steel Tsuyosa feature a beautifully elegant sunburst finish. The markers and hands of this bright-faced timepiece are just the ticket: luminous hands and hour markers, typically, enabling readability in low-light conditions, while the markers are applied and polished for a refined appearance. It’s affordable too.
TISSOT GENTLEMAN POWERMATIC 80
A man whose conduct conforms to a high standard of correct behaviour: that’s a gentleman. Don this Tissot timepiece and a well-fitting smart suit, and you’ve pretty much got the full package. Swiss-made watches have a reputation that goes before them, so finding one at this sweet-spot price point is a success in itself, especially when allied with the look and feel. Performance is driven by the Powermatic 80 – meaning that the automatic movement has an amazing 80-hour power reserve (many industry standard watches of this ilk come in at around 40 hours). The silicon balance spring also enhances resistance to magnetic fields – thereby improving overall accuracy and longevity – while the movement of the Tissot Gentleman – yes, we’re still talking about the watch here – supports hacking seconds, which allows the wearer to stop the second hand, a time setting function for absolute precision.
TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 DATE
Super credible and highly desirable, TAG Heuer makes watches in a certain image: one that fits nicely with the dynamic, fast-paced world of Formula 1, with which the brand has a long-standing association. The Formula 1 Date is a firm favourite for men who are seeking a sporty aesthetic and genuine durability: it’s something to wear while working hard all day before relaxing in the evening. The unidirectional rotating bezel, which typically features a tachymeter scale, really adds to the sporty aesthetic of the watch (and its functionality). The case size – commonly available 41-43mm – leans towards those who like to make a statement.
BULOVA DEVIL DIVER
Great look; great name; great background – the Bulova Devil Diver has character to burn, and with its bold orange face (designed for visibility under the water) it’s suitably worded praise. Old adverts for predecessors of this automatic watch claim it is designed for “the man who is very brave. Or slightly crazy.” Clearly a reference to its ability to withstand the ocean’s wild depths, but this is a timepiece for anyone – whether they go diving or not. The retro flair makes it stand out with a flash of colour, perhaps even teamed with formalwear.
OMEGA DE VILLE PRESTIGE CO-AXIAL
Omega are totemic watchmakers – absolute masters in wondrous timepieces – and this model, the De Ville Prestige Co-Axial, is special enough to rank among one of their best yet. Elegance, craftsmanship, precision – it’s one of those automatic watches where superlatives trip off the tongue. It typically features a stainless steel or gold case – the latter looking immensely luxurious – and some models even use a combination of both materials. Dial colours include white, black, blue, silver, and champagne – and there are also diamond indices available. With this on your wrist, it’s hard not to give off some kind of sparkle.
CARTIER PASHA DE CARTIER
Cartier watches need no introduction: they’re the height of luxury and elegance, and those who own them cherish them beyond measure. This automatic timepiece is as sophisticated as they come: updated from the Pasha's first release in the 1930s – yes, it's a long-established classic – this version benefits from Swiss-made calibre 1847 MC automatic movement, with a modern stainless-steel case, and a blue dial with sunray design. Quite simply, it’s stunning. Not only that, it’s adaptable – the bracelet is interchangeable with an additional grey alligator strap – so it can be worn with different styles or colours or clothing, or for different tasks. Cartier’s don’t come cheap, far from it, but you know what they say: you get what you pay for.
In this smartphone-dominant era, time is always with us, by digital means. But it’s not the same. There is something timeless about the automatic watch – with their blend of traditional craftsmanship and deep connection to the past, allied with 21st-century contemporary design and cutting-edge technology – something that will never fade away.
